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Frequently Asked Questions

Horsehide is not as readily available as cowhide; we eat more cows than horses. In other words, using the supply and demand principle, horsehide will be more of an investment than cowhide when it comes to your holster. Vegetable tanned horsehide is extremely firm-grained, dense and water repellent. One of the more notable properties of horsehide is its natural ability to repel moisture. This is due to the dense cell structure of the hide. This natural ability to repel moisture makes it very useful for certain applications, particularly for use inside the waistband or if you were going to be exposed to an excessive amount of water, moisture, body fluids or humidity. Unlike cowhide, horsehide's non-porous dense nature reduces its ability to fully absorb the molding solution during the forming process; making it much more complex to get good detail of the weapon, but it can be done because we have the skill. Some holster makers claim horsehide cannot look as good as cowhide after the molding process. We disagree with them 100%. With High Noon Holsters' special forming process it can be done and look just as detailed as cowhide.

Also, horsehide tends not to absorb the dye as well as cowhide. That's why you see many horsehide holsters sold as natural finish only. The firm grain texture that you will see in a natural finished horsehide holster is considered part of the beauty of the material and attests to its authenticity. When horsehide is dyed black it hides some of the beauty of the material but has a look all its own with dull spots and shiny ones. Black or natural horsehide holsters are each unique and very beautiful.

difference of cowhide & horsehide

Some makers also claim the stitching will wear out faster on a horsehide holster because horsehide is so dense. They say that since the thread sits on the surface of the holster it is easily damaged by the hard surface, unlike cowhide which is just soft enough to allow the stitching to be pulled tight below the surface, where it is protected from abrasion. We are using a quality thread so this does not an issue. If you do believe this and are still concerned, please note that our stitching is guaranteed for the life of the holster, cow or horse.

The bottom line is, horsehide is more difficult to get and work with than cowhide. Most holster makers will not touch this material and do not want to carry horsehide; they do not want to work with the material. Also, it’s not a big money maker, a lot of waste and a cemetery full of products that do not turn out good. From past history throughout the web even if one does put it in their line, eventually it gets discontinued because of not being able to make a profit on it. We understand, the material kills the sewing machine needles, dulls them and breaks them quickly, puts more stress on all the machines being used ( it’s a very dense, hard material) and it is unpredictable in the manufacturing process. Also, it takes more skill to sew horsehide and harder to get a good mold on the holster. Horsehide has some extraordinary properties cowhide does not have.

So, which material is better? Neither material is better, they are just different. We like the horsehide for inside the pants holsters better because of its water repellent properties and it makes a slightly stiffer holster then the cow. That's not to say cowhide is inferior for inside the pants or makes a soft holster, its stiff, just not as stiff as horse. Some people do not like the “never” break in feel from horse, but that's the material. For outside the pants holsters they are both excellent materials. The decision depends on you and the application the holster will be used for. You cannot go wrong with either choice. Horsehide needs to be treated as an exotic material like shark or gator skin and is a personal preference issue. You may not need it but it sure would be nice to have. If you do not own a horsehide holster try it, you will not be disappointed!

leather magazine carrier

Our holsters are designed for use by professionals and everyone who carries a handgun consistently. The act of drawing your pistol from a holster creates friction at the points of contact, and eventually those points will begin to show signs of wear. For that reason it would be unfair to expect that your personal sidearm will remain in new condition forever. A lined holster is a way to simply delay the inevitable, which is holster wear. If you practice hard, your gun’s finish will wear, however, lining helps retard the process.

There are other benefits to lining a holster besides protecting your gun’s finish.

Our lining is made from a material that is produced exclusively for High Noon Holsters. It is a special synthetic material (man-made) that is super slick and has cutting edge durability. It wears in and burnishes smooth by use. The material will draw moisture from the surface of the weapon and then, dissipates it quickly into the atmosphere. Being a man-made material, it has water repellent properties. Also, because of the laminating process creating a sandwich of leather, glue and lining creates a stiffer holster than an unlined version. This does not mean an unlined holster is soft, it just means when you compare them side by side, the lined holster has a stiffer feel to it.

Some makers offer suede lining, (in other words some kind of animal skin)however, there are drawbacks to this lining method. In our tests, most of them absorb oil, dirt and powder residue. We feel our synthetic material out classes and out performs the suede lining. We do not care if it costs more money and is more time consuming to apply, it is the best and that is why we use it. High Noon Holsters does not cut corners. High Noon Holsters is all about producing the very best holsters we can. That's why we have the reputation we have.

As you know, there are many other holster makers out there that make a similar product just designed a bit differently than ours. Almost all of the top shelf, custom holster makers feel the same way we do. We respect each other’s work and let the customer make their own decision without speaking negatively of a competitors' product in an attempt to try and convince you that ours is superior. With that said, there are some out there that do not follow this rule.

Anyway, before you make a decision to purchase, you must compare the quality, design, price, guarantees, return policies, what's written in published books and gun magazines and delivery time" of our product with what other makers offer. When you are ready, if you still have any questions give us a call and we will be more than pleased to discuss the benefits of our designs with you so that you can make an educated decision. We have made our web site very user friendly and educational, 99% of the information you need is here. We have put a lot of time and effort into our web site so you can cruise around 24-7 and not only have a great shopping experience but to also get your questions answered.

We build our holsters for a snug fit. It may appear the holster fit is too tight at first but this is by design. Tightness in a new holster is not uncommon and is preferable to the alternative. If the draw is a little stiff at first, it is recommended that you work with the holster. It will loosen up with a bit of use, it is leather and by simply using it the product will stretch. About 25 to 35 draws should be a good indicator of whether the holster will break in on its own.

There are many reasons as to why a holster would be excessively tight ranging from the texture of your guns finish, minute variations in the hand stitching process, to slight changes in climate or humidity from where the holster is made. Regardless of the reason, a too tight holster can easily be remedied by the end user. Generally, leather will stretch slightly with use. A break-in period may be needed, similar to a new pair of leather shoes.

Tension Screws

If your holster has a tension screw, the tension screw is not preset at the factory. You may need to loosen the tension to holster your handgun the first time, after which you can adjust the tension screw(s) to the tension you desire. We recommend you check your screws and adjustments before and during each use. There is no reason to completely remove the tension unit, especially during break in. Some people use a drop of Loctite 222 Thread locker or a drop of clear nail polish in the post which may prevent it from backing out. Both are a low strength thread locker and the parts can be separated using hand tools if ever needed. Even using these methods, you should always check the screws each time to make sure everything was good to go.


If the thumbreak strap is difficult to use at first, insert a completely unloaded handgun into the holster. Be sure the handgun is fully seated in the holster. PUSH the gun in all the way so the trigger guard is stopped by the stitching. Hold the gun with your right hand; hold the strap with your left hand. Now at the same time pull the gun to the right and the strap to the left while keeping it taught. Six to twelve times should do it. Now you are ready to try and snap the thumbreak together. Pull the strap over the back of the firearm without releasing tension and while maintaining the tension, snap the thumbreak strap closed.

Right handed shooters should pull to the left while left handed shooters pull to the right. Once the thumbreak is fastened over the handgun keeping it fasten will quickly break it in.

Holster Fit - Break In Methods

  1. Blocking Process:First, place a completely unloaded handgun into the 4 mil plastic bag that your new holster was packaged in. Then carefully insert the bagged gun all the way into the holster, do not wet or spray the holster with any solution to aid in the stretching process. Now, twist the gun about 1/16" in both directions a few dozen times. Next, work the weapon in and out of the holster a few dozen times. Remove the bag and see if you like the fit. If it is still too tight, then repeat the process. This process, as described above, will in no way harm the detailed molding of your new holster, nor will it ruin its retention qualities. It serves simply to stretch the leather a few thousands of an inch larger than the gun. The amount of stretching time needed for satisfactory results range from a just a few minutes to overnight.
  2. Kitchen wax paper:You could also try wrapping it with 1 layer of kitchen wax paper ,with the wax to the outside and seat the completely unloaded handgun fully into the holster. Now twist the gun about 1/16" in both directions a few dozen times. Next, work the weapon in and out of the holster a few dozen times. Remove the paper and see if you like the fit. If it is still too tight, then repeat the process with 2 layers of wax paper. Continue until you get it close to the desired fit. Remove the paper and do a few dozen practice draws. The holster should now be sufficiently broken in to allow you to wear it and finalize the break in process. This process, as described above, will in no way harm the detailed molding of your new holster, nor will it ruin its retention qualities. It serves simply to stretch the leather a few thousands of an inch larger than the gun. The amount of stretching time needed for satisfactory results range from a just a few minutes to overnight.
  3. Nylon stockings:Place a completely unloaded handgun into the nylon stocking and seat the gun fully into the holster. Now twist the gun about 1/16" in both directions a few dozen times. Next, work the weapon in and out of the holster a few dozen times. Remove the stocking and see if you like the fit. If it is still too tight, then repeat the process. Continue until you get it close to the desired fit. Remove the stocking and do a few dozen practice draws. The holster should now be sufficiently broken in to allow you to wear it and finalize the break in process. This process, as described above, will in no way harm the detailed molding of your new holster, nor will it ruin its retention qualities. It serves simply to stretch the leather a few thousands of an inch larger than the gun. The amount of stretching time needed for satisfactory results range from a just a few minutes to overnight.
  4. Kitchen plastic wrap:You can also try wrapping the holster with 1 or 2 layers of kitchen plastic wrap then seat the completely unloaded handgun fully into the holster. Now, twist the gun about 1/16" in both directions a few dozen times. Next, work the weapon in and out of the holster a few dozen times. Remove the plastic wrap and see if you like the fit. If it is still too tight, then repeat the process. Continue until you get it close to the desired fit. Remove the plastic wrap and do a few dozen practice draws. The holster should now be sufficiently broken in to allow you to wear it and finalize the break in process. This process, as described above, will in no way harm the detailed molding of your new holster, nor will it ruin its retention qualities. It serves simply to stretch the leather a few thousands of an inch larger than the gun. The amount of stretching time needed for satisfactory results range from a just a few minutes to overnight.

If you feel the body of the holster is too tight, using your hands only, loosen up the seamed edges by gently flexing the holster in all directions repeatedly. This does not mean severely folding, bending or smashing the leather. Once the body of the holster starts to feel less rigid, insert a completely unloaded handgun into the holster. Be sure the handgun is fully seated in the holster. Holding the handgun by its grip and the holster with your other hand, twist the gun to the right and then to the left.


It is common for the inside of a leather holster to scratch from a single holstering. This is referred to as etching. A smooth leather lined holster will be even more subject to this normal occurrence. After this initial etching the holster will custom fit your handgun.

Sharp Edges

Some firearm manufacturers still sell guns with very sharp edges. They have not been deburred/dehorned. If your gun falls into this category, it is highly recommended that you have a qualified gunsmith deburr/dehorn your firearm.

Leather is the material High Noon Holster originally started using to make holsters and since then we have added other material like Kydex and nylon. Leather has been used to make holsters since guns were invented and for good reason. Leather is a product of nature. Leather has been used by man for thousands of years. It is one of the few things that has stood the test of time because of its practical benefits. Take a piece of leather and observe the way the fibers are knitted together. It is nature's work. It is so wonderful that man cannot reproduce it exactly. He cannot even recreate it. Boil a piece of hide or skin. It will turn into gelatin. (Gelatin is a translucent, colorless, brittle (when dry), nearly tasteless solid substance derived from the collagen inside animals' skin and bones. Gelatin melts to a liquid when heated and solidifies when cooled again). No power known to man can turn that gelatin back into leather. Shred it, no machine can reweave the fibers into their former wonderful fabric. Take all the chemicals which go to make up a piece of leather, and mix them in all the ways that can be imagined and man cannot make a single inch of leather.

Leather truly is a one of a kind material. It's both strong and soft, it can breathe as well as insulate, and it can stretch, but will not tear. With such diverse characteristics as these, it's no wonder so many products are made from leather. Leather making can be traced back to the earliest dawn of history; back to ancient Rome, and even Adam and Eve. Today, we see leather everywhere in shoes, jackets, gloves, furniture, bags, you name it, it's available in leather and, of course, gun holsters.

Leather is a uniquely versatile fabric. The functional, physical properties of leather are mostly universal regardless of origin (cow, steer, goat, deer, pig, etc.). Leather offers the benefits of high tensile and tear strength, elongation, flexibility, puncture resistance, capacity to absorb and transmit moisture, breathing and insulating qualities and lasting molding abilities. Many do not realize or understand the amazing properties leather possesses, so here is a brief overview.

The tensile strength of leather or greatest longitudinal stress a substance can bear without tearing apart is very high. Leather’s unique physical structure is responsible for this. Nature created millions of coil-like molecules into tiny fibrous strands, twisting the strands together into bundles of fibers, and finally interweaving the fiber bundles about themselves in a three-dimensional manner. An untold number of interactions within the substance are a result of this intricate fiber network and results in a very high tensile strength. Leathers ability to withstand tearing forces, or tear strength, is probably the one property most taken for granted, and it gives leather products exceptionally long life. The interwoven and locked fibers of leather form a random, three dimensional design. Because they are not oriented in any fixed directional pattern, there is no easy path for a tear to follow. This helps with one handed reholstering with the thicker leathers.

Elongation refers to a substances ability to lengthen, or stretch, when stress is applied to it and represents the maximum extent a material can stretch without breaking. Leather is seldom stretched to its maximum capacity allowing future stretching to occur if necessary. This is one reason why leather finds its way into so many different types of products and the reason why a break in period is needed for your holster. Leather also has natural properties of flexibility, which again originate from leathers unique matrix of fibers. This flexibility is maintained without failure through numerous flexing, temperature fluctuations, and moisture ranges. Leather’s ability to maintain its flexibility cannot be measured in years, instead, decades are a more accurate time frame. Leather boots, clothing and dog sled harnesses used in the Arctic are prime examples of leather’s performance under extreme conditions. The irregular fiber pattern of leather also allows for incredible puncture resistance. Manufacturing a material that is both flexible and tough to puncture is quite difficult, but leather is a natural for both. Leather’s puncture resistance is especially evident when sewing it. It is not easy to push a needle through leather.

The capacity to absorb and transmit moisture is another natural property of cowhide leather. It will absorb liquids, wick away water from damp material and pick up moisture from the humid air. this with our in house lining process, the product is unbeatable. Shoe manufacturers also take advantage of leathers ability to absorb moisture. They often dampen upper leathers before molding because when the water content increases in leather, strength and elongation value also increases.

Leather has excellent breathing and insulating properties throughout all seasons. In warm seasons, leather allows skin moisture to evaporate through its pores. In cold seasons a comfortable temperature is maintained within the leather garment as the porosity acts as insulation. The dense fiber structure of leather also provides a windproof feature unique to flexible, lightweight fabrics.

Another important characteristic of leather, especially in shoe making and gun holster making, is its lasting molding ability. Leather can maintain a new shape and retain the valuable properties already mentioned. This truly is an incredible "accomplishment". There you have it; this is why we use leather as one of the materials we offer holsters in. It is a great product to hold your gun till you need it to defend you and your family's lives.

We use synthetic thread.

Synthetic thread is impervious to deterioration from the long-term effects of perspiration, UV light, chemicals, moisture and, also, will not rot. It is much stronger and more resilient to the effects of abrasion in addition to having a higher tensile strength.

Another significant point to consider is the effect of sweat on these fibers. This is particularly important when considering IWB and other deep concealment holsters, normally worn close to the body or on the skin itself. Cotton is a natural fiber and, if used, is liable to deteriorate when subjected to the effects of perspiration over a period of time. Synthetics, on the other hand, would still retain their integrity, even after the cotton had completely rotted away.

Many are put off by the erroneous idea that synthetic threads have a plastic appearance. This may have been the case in the early, experimental days of manufacture. Since then, however, the industry has spent a fortune in ensuring that modern synthetic threads are equally attractive and indistinguishable in appearance from cotton. Our stitching is guaranteed for the life of the holster.

FBI tilt refers to a holster that is designed in such a manner that the grip of the gun angles forward and the muzzle of the gun points to the rear, as opposed to a neutral or vertical rake where the gun rides straight up and down. Usually the FBI tilt is approximately 15 degrees. This tilt offers an advantage in concealment keeping the butt of the grip from protruding away from the body. This tilt is also referred to as a cant. A cant or FBI tilt is recommended for holsters that are worn from the hip back, which is the 3-6 o’clock positions.

Depending upon the application, we will use either standard or high tension snaps. In some cases we use "pull the dot" snaps. These are one way snaps and will only snap on and off when pulled in a specific direction. These snaps are used for additional security, when it is essential that the snap not come undone.


Our slots for outside the pants holsters are made 1.75" to fit a 1.50" belt perfectly. You need that extra room so your gun belt can slide in and out without friction. Do not be fooled by the Internet myths that you have to match the belt width with the holsters slots. This is untrue and the friction caused by this setup will prematurely wear out your gun belt.

If you use a narrower belt then 1.50" and want to lock it in place better, you can run the belt through a holster slot and then under your belt loop on the pants before you run it back out the other holster slot. We do this when using a dress belt 1.25" and it makes the whole thing more secure.


We size the straps on our inside the waistband holsters at 1.75" to fit a 1.50" belt. You need the extra room so the straps work as intended and you can snap it over your belt. If the straps and the belt were both the same size, you would not be able to snap the holster on your belt. It would be way too tight.

When the holster slots are 1.50" and the belt is 1.50" the holster will damage the top and bottom of your belt because of the friction created when you slide the holster on and off the belt. The belt slots on the holster need to be a minimum of a ¼” to ½” larger so the holster goes on the belt without friction points. It will rarely move once the belt is tightened. The tighter the belt the less movement you will have.

  1. Put gun (unloaded for practice) in holster.
  2. Put holster in pocket.
  3. Grasp gun in pocket.
  4. Use thumb on the very top side of the leather to push off and release the gun.
  5. Extend your thumb as far as it will go. The farther you push the more the gun comes out of the holster.
  6. Now press the gun and holster against your pant leg.
  7. At this point, the rubber exterior will grasp the pocket.
  8. If you keep pulling, the gun will come out of the holster.

The holster should not move upwards more than an inch. If it does, you are not extending your thumb far enough to release the gun or you are not pressing hard enough against your pant leg or the holster has to break in. It could be a combination of all three.

To break in a Pocket Grabber or Pocket Reload:

Insert a completely unloaded handgun into the holster. Be sure the handgun is fully seated in the holster. Holding the handgun by its grip and the holster with your other hand, twist the gun to the right and then to the left.

These warnings should be read prior to the use of any High Noon product. All firearms are potentially dangerous weapons. Firearms should be kept out of the reach of children. Use of a handgun under any conditions may be dangerous. Serious personal injury or even death could occur without proper training in the safe handling of firearms by an accredited firearms safety course. No person should handle any firearm unless such person has successfully passed an accredited firearms safety program. Great care should be used when handling, storing or transporting firearms or when placing or removing a handgun from your High Noon product. Never place a loaded handgun in a holster without first testing, in an unloaded condition, for proper fit with the handgun.

Carrying any handgun with a live cartridge in the chamber immediately in front of the firing pin may cause an accidental discharge. Single action revolvers and some semi-automatic pistols, should be carried with the hammer or firing pin resting on an empty chamber. It is the user's responsibility to exercise extreme caution when handling or carrying any handgun and to assume at all times that the gun is loaded. Do not attempt to cock a handgun while it is in the holster. Cocking the handgun while holstered can cause damage to the holster, gun or both and may cause an accidental discharge. For information on how to carry your particular handgun, please refer to your handgun manufacturer's safety and instruction manual.

High Noon Holsters® are designed to fit factory equipped handguns. The use of trigger shoes or grip adapters or any modifications to the handgun may cause improper holster fit and accidental discharge. All High Noon Holsters® are designed to function safely and are made for specific handguns. Any alteration to the holster or using a holster with a gun for which it was not made could also, render an unsafe condition. It is the user's responsibility to; personally check for holster handgun compatibility using actual products. It is also the user's responsibility to regularly check the holster and its hardware (including but not limited to, snaps and screws) not manufactured by High Noon for proper fit and function. Should any High Noon Holsters® product become worn, loose, broken, defective or ill-fitting, cease use immediately.

Please be certain that your gun is securely seated in the holster before use. Keep thumb on the back of the hammer {excluding cocked and locked carry method, slide must be used} or slide when inserting the handgun in the holster to help assure that no movement occurs during insertion. Keep fingers clear of the trigger when drawing or replacing the handgun in the holster. For maximum safety, holster retaining straps must be used when provided. During vigorous physical activity, such as running, the gun should be held in place with your hand to prevent the gun from falling out of the holster. We strongly recommend a regular practice routine be utilized to assure the continued capabilities of both product and user.

You must acknowledge and realize that this disclaimer is a condition of the sale of the High Noon product involved.

Click here for our Guarantee !!!!

TERMS OF SALE — All High Noon products are sold as is and "with all faults". The entire risk as to the quality and performance of the product is with the buyer. Should the product prove defective following its purchase, the buyer and not the manufacturer, distributor or retailer assumes the entire risk of all necessary servicing or repairs. Under no circumstances shall High Noon be liable for incidental or consequential damages, such as loss of use of property, commercial loss and loss of earnings or profits. The implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose and all other warranties, expressed or implied, are excluded from this transaction and shall not apply to the product sold. The determination of the fitness or the suitability of any product for a specific use is the responsibility of the buyer. High Noon reserves the right to make changes in products built and or sold by them at any time without incurring any obligation to make same or similar changes on products previously built and or sold by them. All High Noon products are made in the U.S.A. and produced according to rigid specifications. Prices and models are subject to change without notice.

High Noon Holsters® designs, features and model names are the exclusive property of High Noon Holsters® {a registered trademark}. Any and all persons including, but not limited to, individuals, firms and or corporations are forbidden from imitating, copying or reproducing them in any way.

You must acknowledge and realize that this disclaimer is a condition of the sale of the High Noon product involved.

Click here for our Guarantee !!!!

Our leather products are made from natural cow hides that are range bred and grown. Therefore, there may be natural range markings in the grain of the leather. This is normal for top grain cow hide and is a very desirable feature among leather collectors. It also adds to the beauty and character to your High Noon leather product. These same natural range markings will appear in our genuine horsehide.

If your holster has a tension screw, the tension screw is not pre-set at the factory. You may need to loosen the tension to holster your handgun the first time, after which you can adjust the tension screw(s) to the tension you desire. We recommend you check your screws and adjustments before and during each use. There is no reason to completely remove the tension unit. We recommend using Loctite 222 Thread Locker or a drop of clear nail polish which may prevent it from backing out. Both are a low strength thread locker. When you get the tension screw to the desired tension, turn the holster over and from the back put the liquid thread locker in the center opening on the back of the screw post. The parts can be separated using hand tools if ever necessary. But even using these methods, you should always check the screws each time you use the holster. Additional tension screws can be purchased on our website under “Accessories” for a small price.

Care and Maintenance of Leather

Our products are made from natural cowhides and horsehides that are range bred and grown. Therefore, there may be natural range markings in the grain of the hide. This is normal for top grain cowhide or horsehide and is a very desirable feature among collectors. This holster may contain range a mark or marks. A range mark is a natural occurrence in the hide. It tells a story of the animal's life. It also adds to the beauty and character of your High Noon product.


  • The occasional application of paste shoe polish to touch up surface wear is all that is needed.
  • Do make sure the holster or magazine carrier provides secure gun and magazine retention.
  • If you holster gets wet, dry the leather naturally. A fan blowing room temperature air will do the job or just leave it alone. It will dry by itself.


  • Never use anything like saddle soap or mink oil. It will make your holster too soft. We oil them as part of the manufacturing process and that should be enough for the life of the holster.
  • Do not submerge or saturate your leather product in water or any other liquid.
  • Do not dry your leather product with forced heat from a hair dryer, oven, radiator, direct sun light, etc.
  • Do not use holster if tension unit(s) are missing. Additional tension screw can be purchased on our website under “Accessories” for a small price.

The Mister Softy is a straight drop holster with no cant. It is a low ride holster and sits low inside your pants for maximum concealment. It is best worn from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock. The Bare Asset has a cant and is a high ride holster with a combat grip. The combat grip enables you to get your whole hand on the gun. It is best worn from 3 o'clock to 6 o'clock.

Choosing a holster for concealed carry will depend upon many factors. It is imperative that the weapon you choose works with your physical characteristics. If, for instance, you are very slight of build but feel the need to carry a large handgun or a wide-bodied weapon, then you are creating a set of problems that are not going to be solved by anything as simple as a holster. The same set of difficulties may also be experienced if you have a large waist. A large waistline will tend to push out and highlight any additions on your belt, such as a big holstered handgun. Do not worry, you will find the perfect compromise with body size, weapon size and clothing style. It's a personal thing. You will probably need to invest in about two, or possibly three, holsters to cover every situation, occasion and outfit.

For most people a belt holster mounted just behind the strong side hip (3-6 o’clock) is perfect. The shirt, coat, etc. drapes down and hides the holstered gun. If you have a large waist, you may be better served with an appendix carry holster which is carried forward of the strong side hip (1-3 o’clock). The appendix draw is much more comfortable for people with impaired mobility of the elbow or shoulder. Only you can decide which holster will work best for you and the chances are, that no one single holster will meet all of your requirements.

Asking a hundred different shooters their favorite modes of carry will probably get you a hundred different answers. Each will swear by his or her own particular preference and, in a way, they are all correct. However, what works for a 6’5” 225lb person may not work for a 5’4” 150lb person. Clothes play a big role in concealed carry, too. Suit and tie every day or work boots and jeans? Narrowing the choice down to match your own particular set of needs is not always easy.

The honest answer is that there really is not one best holster for concealed carry. Every one of our holsters is designed for a specific application and performs admirably within the parameters of that application. Many are very strictly task specific, so any sort of general comparison would be quite inappropriate. A lot depends on body type, climate, concealment level, time, activities and weapon choice.

You will need, ultimately, to invest in about two, or possibly three, holsters to cover every outfit, situation, air temperature, etc . Do not worry. You will find the perfect compromise among body size, weapon size and clothing style. It's a personal thing.

DO NOT force dry it with hot air like a hair dryer or an oven, this will cook and dry out the leather. Just let it dry naturally under a fan, blowing room temperature air does a good job.

Chances are something went wrong, you did not store it right or it got wet and was not dried correctly.

Anyway, to remove mildew from leather; create a mixture of one cup rubbing alcohol per one cup of water. Wipe the mildew area with a cloth dipped in the diluted alcohol mixture, and then allow it to dry. If the mildew persists, use mild soap and water that contains a germicide, then gently wipe the mildew with a clean dampened cloth and allow to dry.

They are both good and get the job done. It all depends on what you want out of the holster.

Clips are easy on and easy off. You can wear it without a belt, but this is for short term only, a good gun belt is recommended like our Rock Steady belts.

Straps have more color options; you can get different colors (black, tan or natural) and different strap sizes (1-1/4 or 1-1/2) to match your belt. Straps may wear out or stretch and may need replacing over time.

They are both the same holster except for the material used. The Mister Softy is super thin and easy to carry and conceal, but when the gun is drawn the holster will collapse. The Hideaway is thicker leather, molded to your gun and when the gun is drawn, will allow you to one handed reholster your weapon.

So, if you want a super thin holster the Mister Softy is better. If you want a holster that does not collapse when the gun is drawn the Hideaway is better. Some people get both and wear the Mister Softy in the summer because it is so thin and they use the Hideaway for the winter.

Most of the quality holster manufacturers use full grain leather harnesses for a number of reasons. First, we call suede harnesses the one year rig. Suede absorbs everything it comes in contact with, which is mostly body perspiration. If you do not believe us, put a drop of water on it and see where it goes. After a while it gets a perspiration stain that smells like your under arms after you have sweated all day long. It does not come out even if it is washed. Second, although full grain leather is much more expensive to stock than suede it has the strength to support the largest of handguns in a shoulder rig. Third, our full grain harness repels moisture; it will last a lifetime and will not absorb your body perspiration. Also, nylon is too slippery and will slip and slide on the shoulder and which creates an unstable situation.

It is impossible for us to stock everything. We currently produce more than 76 holsters in our line (that is only holsters and does not include mag carriers, K9 gear, etc.), in three colors, left and right hand, lined or unlined and different materials (Horsehide or Cowhide) for over five hundred semi autos and revolvers, which means that we would need to have about 912,000 holsters in stock just to have one of each. Therefore a large part of our holster line is custom made. We do offer quite a number of in stock items that are ready to ship as soon as your order is placed.

We like open top holsters better than thumbreaks. They are quicker on the draw and quicker to reholster. The straps on the thumbreak always seem to get in the way on the redraw. Take note here, the danger of an unintended discharge when a strap gets caught in the trigger guard is a real one, and by no means limited to a certain gun. Any weapon can have an unintended discharge if you are not careful.

It is also harder to practice drawing with a thumbreak holster than an open top. People that have open tops seem to practice more, because it is a lot easier. For most people that have a concealed carry permit, open top is the way to go. It is just simpler, nothing to worry about except drawing. Most people are not going in harm's way, you are avoiding it, and so, a thumbreak holster is not needed. Law enforcement is a different story. Some departments mandate a thumbreak off duty holster. However, it can be difficult to try and hand cuff someone if you cannot reholster.

Some people believe a thumbreak is safer in case someone tries to take the gun out of their holster. It is not safer when you need the gun in a hurry, to have to go through a thumbreak to get to it. As we said before simple is always better. Also, keep in mind that your holster is a concealment holster. It is supposed to be covered so no one knows you are carrying a gun.

Most people do not need to carry like our law enforcement does. Their duty holster needs to be in a level 2, 3, 4 secure holster. Law enforcement officers are constantly managing dangerous situations that, thankfully, most of us are not.

Some people also believe that if the holster does not have a thumbreak on it, the gun will fall out. This is a tall tale. Our open top holsters are molded to a specific gun you order it for and will be so tight when you get it you will hardly be able to put the gun in or get it out till the break in period is over. Also, we have designed a tension screw into the holster to adjust the draw. This could be tightened down so much that the gun will not come out.

Some people also believe that if you run with an open top holster it will pop out. First of all you need to learn how to run properly with any holster on, this would be the key. If you are running with a gun holster on, the first thing you should do is put your hand over the gun and holster. This serves two purposes, first one is you will be able to run a lot faster without something bouncing up and down , the second would be to make sure everything stays in place (shirt or covering garment, holsters shift front to back) in case you need the weapon. You would be surprised how the shirt or covering garment bunches up right over the handle of the gun when running. This is for short distances, not miles of jogging.

With all that said there are certain circumstances where you need a thumbreak (motor cycle, jogging long distances, horseback riding, mountain biking, ATV) and we make them, figure out the job you have for the gun and get the appropriate holster, for most it will be the open top.

Unfortunately, the answer is no. We are a working factory complete with heavy duty machines. For your safety, tours or visits are not available. We also do not have a cash register at hand; we are not setup for retail visits. In addition, most of our holsters are custom made, so, we probably will not have the holster you want for your gun.

Unfortunately, the answer is no. We are a working factory complete with heavy duty machines. For your safety, tours or visits are not available. We also do not have a cash register at hand; we are not setup for retail visits. In addition, most of our holsters are custom made, so, we probably will not have the holster you want for your gun.We do have a 14 day return policy in place for your complete satisfaction.

Gun holster leather is tanned using the "vegetable tan" method not the "chrome tan" method. Chrome tanned leather is what you will find in shoes, jackets, wallets, and certain outdoor leathers like that used to make Harley saddlebags or motorcycle chaps. Chrome tan leather cannot be shaped and molded like holster leather.

Vegetable tanned leather, which is what we use for making quality holsters, is not tanned with any kind of salts. Vegetable tanning uses only organic substances like live oak bark, tree bark, beets, walnut shells, clay, plant extracts or other vegetable matter containing tannins, not man-made chemicals to tan the leather. Just as a comforting thought for you, perspiration and humidity will have a far more damaging effect on a firearm than any chemical traces left from modern tanning processes.

If you ordered on line and put a correct e-mail address in the order form, when the order is shipped, you will be e-mailed a tracking number from UPS/USPS. This way you can get right on line and watch your package move from our manufacturing factory here in Florida to your door step.

If you ordered on line and put a correct e-mail address in the order form, you will receive a conformation e-mail verifying that we have your order.

Steel is old technology and has some serious drawbacks.

Here's what was learned over the years and why we decided steel was not a good choice.

Steel is heavy and makes your holster heavier than it needs to be. It can be crushed closed preventing one handed reholstering. This was a major complaint and even dangerous for some people. Holster makers that use steel will even instruct you to push the mouth of the holster closed to get more retention on the draw. By doing this you have a one draw holster. Unfortunately, that’s exactly what you did not want when you ordered a holster with a reinforced mouth.

  1. Steel will corrode even if it is galvanized to prevent corrosion, it will still corrode.
  2. Buffing the steel mouth band reinforcement plates to a glass like smoothness does not help either, it will not prevent the steel from eating away at the leather.
  3. When its hot out the leather is soaking in the moisture from the air and your body. Often times the steel could be surrounded on both sides by wet leather which causes a negative environment for the steel.

The facts and our own R & D work do not add up for us to use steel. The leaders in the field of holster making are using synthetics.

There are better ways to deal with reinforcing holsters than steel. If you are on the cutting edge of holster making, synthetics are the way to go, they are light in weight, do not rust, will not let the holster mouth crush closed and will not eat away the leather. We have had law enforcement agencies test our synthetic reinforced holsters against makers who use steel reinforced holsters. There is no comparison, our holsters won hands down.

There are also many examples of where synthetic materials have replaced steel in the world. One example would be garbage cans, remember the old steel ones? They got all dented, disfigured and had sharp edges. Today we buy synthetic only because they are light weight and crush resistant. Metal detectors will find you every time with a metal reinforcement. Metal detectors are not just at airports anymore. Some schools even have metal detectors. And yes, we know the gun will get picked up. However, in many situations you may leave the weapon in your car or you are able to check the weapon at the door and then walk through the detector with the holster still on. An example would be if you have to go into a court of law or some restricted area. That metal detector will beep loudly…so much for trying to do the right thing and be discreet.

The Slide Guard and the Stingray are both great choices for women. A woman’s hips are bigger than a man’s. This tends to make the gun dig into their ribs. The Slide Guard and the Stingray give a lot of protection so this will not happen.

Most times this is due to your choice of belt or it’s the users being self-conscious. The holster and belt are part of a system. A cheap belt or even a double thickness non reinforced belt will allow the gun to hang outward from the body. This bulges and violates concealment discretion. It can even cause the gun to bump into things or snag on them. Before long, it becomes uncomfortable. The High Noon Rocky Steady belts are double thickness and reinforced, so, a piece of paper cannot separate you from your holster.

First off it may be your own self-conscious working on you.

We have all gone through it. People who are new to carrying worry about printing simply because they are not used to having a gun on them. Think about every time you have been out around town, have you ever noticed someone else with a firearm? Generally you are not going to notice unless you know what to look for. We have found that the vast majority of the world is not looking. They don't care, they don't expect people to carry guns, and it is not in their domain of thinking. However, if you decide to carry a firearm to protect yourself, you will need to modify your dress code. Your concealment for the weapon cannot come from just the holster. Some concealment must come from your clothing. Because of this you should select clothes with the handgun on and in place. You need to consider clothing that does not allow the weapons silhouette to show. Make whatever concessions necessary to do that. If that means wearing pants slightly bigger this is what you must do. If it means adopting a different means or strategy of personal dress like an untucked shirt, longer jacket then that is what you must do.

Do not be afraid to buy clothing that will help to conceal the gun. In fact you NEED to buy clothing that helps conceal the gun and holster combination. Here is an example. Many people have tried an inside the waistband (IWB) holster and found it uncomfortable. Of course it will be! You bought the pants to fit you. Now they have to fit both you and a holstered gun. That’s a tight fit, no doubt!

Here’s the solution, a simple experiment.

For about a week, unbutton the top button of your pants. Let the belt out two notches and try the IWB holster again. All of a sudden it will be comfortable. Now buy pants two inches larger in the waist than you normally buy. Belts have to be replaced also, same way, two inches larger.

This accomplishes two things:

It will provide comfort for the MOST concealable way to carry a gun. It will also keep you safe by forcing you to carry your gun because without it you will feel like your pants are falling down.

Next Assemble a holster wardrobe:

One gun with multiple holsters of different styles will cover you for the various climate changes and various dress codes as opposed to several guns with one holster for each. Wearing an outside the pants holster (OWB) with pants that are too tight is a much better option than wearing an inside the pants holster (IWB). Use IWB for better concealment in pants that can take it. The heavy material in tweed jackets does not let guns and holsters print as much as lighter thin material jackets do. Find a gun savvy tailor. Suits can be made around the gun and holster. If you buy off the rack, let the tailor do his job. Jackets should be one size larger than normal with a single rear vent only. Side vent jackets are NEVER in style for those who wear guns at their hips. The butt will always find its way through.

There are many different ways to get the same job done. Some holster makers mold on the exact magazines. However, we decided with our leather to make our mag carriers more universal so you do not have to buy different carriers for each different magazine you own. Let’s say you own a Glock 19, a Sig 226 and an H&K Compact. All three are staggered magazines and if you look at them closely, they are very similar. So, if you buy from a maker who molds on the exact magazine, you need three different carriers.

We agree when it comes to a gun holster it has to be molded on the exact gun or it will not work properly, no two guns from different makers come that close in design. However, when it comes to a magazine, we knew we could design something different that would help the customer handle the problem of buying different carriers for different magazines.

Our leather magazine carriers (Tie Breaker, Double Take, Single Skin, and Double Skin) do not have to be molded on the exact magazines because of our double tension screw setup and the fact that most staggered magazines and single column mags are close in their dimensions.

For example, you only need one mag holder for staggered 9/40 magazines because our leather mag carrier will cover all mags for Glock’s , Sig’s, H&K’s, CZ’s, Browning’s, S&W’s etc., etc., etc. As long as it is a staggered 9/40 magazine , the double tension setup will work and can be tightened down so much that in some cases you won't be able to get the mags out. The same goes for single column mags and staggered 45's. One carrier takes care of all staggered 9/40 mags, another one does all single column mags and another one does staggered 45's. Three different sizes covers it all.

It looks great doesn't it? You can have a choice of a straight drop or a canted holster. In reality, you are going to adopt only one of these cants and what you will have left is a wide over bloated piece of leather. It’s like buying a quart of milk in a one gallon container. It’s a concealed carry holster, less is better. It is difficult enough to manufacture a holster to perform one function correctly, let alone two! Don't be fooled by the lower quality products on the market that promise far more than they deliver.

With all the molding on the front, the gun sticks out and creates a big bulge. Also, if you use the holster day in and day out, with many draws for long enough, it will get a little loose. Then, it not only sticks out but it will not retain the weapon correctly.

When all the molding is on the front of the holster (also referred to as offset construction) it is less concealable. Pancake style holsters have been used for hundreds of years since the beginning of holster making. 95% of makers today are producing pan cake style holsters. There are a few holster makers touting this molding on the front design as better, a more comfortable carry, a narrower profile than ordinary pancake style holsters, more compact and concealable. We have tested both designs and find the opposite to be true. We prefer the pancake style to having all the molding on one side. Unfortunately, it does nothing but let everyone know there is something on your hip because it bulges so much.

molding on front vs pancake style

All holsters will shift as you move fast. A lot depends on what kind of belt you have on. Our Rock Steady belt will support the weight of the handgun in a big way. On inside the waistband holsters (IWB) 90% of the pressure holding your gun comes from the belt, we will give your pants 10%. On outside the pants holsters (OWB) 100% of the support comes from the belt. If you have a thin unsupported belt you are going to have a tough time carrying comfortable all day.

Think of it this way:

Think of a car accident at 20 mph, the car stops suddenly, now the contents start moving at 20 mph. Since we have our seat belts on, so we get a sudden jerk but for the most part stay in place. The faster the crash the more jolt you will get, but again for the most part you stay in place.

Its the same scenario with you and your holster throughout the day. You run and stop suddenly, but now the gun starts moving. The gun belt now acts as a seatbelt. Twist right or left, same thing. If you have a thin unsupported belt, the gun will shift much more than a Rock Steady supported belt like we sell. A good gun is important, and a quality holster is unbeatable, but it's a good supported gun belt that makes the first two items work well.

The shipping department usually generates your shipping label the day your order is ready to ship. However, sometimes they will do it a few days before it is ready to ship. It all depends. As soon as your shipping label has been generated you will be sent a UPS/USPS tracking number thru email. When you get your tracking number this means your order will ship either that day or within a few days. In stock items are likely to ship in about 1 to 5 days depending on the day's volume, this is just a paper work process; we pick and ship in chronological order. Please remember there may be many orders ahead of yours that have to be processed.

A few suggestions below:

  1. Spray the inside of your holster with Febreeze.
  2. Get an old pair of tights or pantyhose (the thinner pairs tend to leak a bit, so a thicker material, like tights, is usually better) and fill them with baking soda and leave them in the holster overnight. It will absorb odors.
  3. Dust the inside of your holster with baking soda. It will absorb odors.
  4. You can also put dryer sheets in the holster overnight. It will absorb odors.
  5. Dust the inside of your holster with talcum powder or special anti-bacterial powder available at the drugstore. It will absorb the odors.

Open muzzle design or open bottom holster means the holster is not sewn closed. You always want an open bottom or open muzzle holster. All of High Noon's holsters are open muzzle designs. We know some look like they are sewn closed, but we feature pictures of lined holsters on the web, which give the look of being sewn closed, but they are not. A lined holster has to be sewn all around which gives the illusion from a front view that the holster is sewn closed at the bottom. However, the lining is sewn in before the sides are sewn closed, so, it is still an open muzzle design. Closed or sewn bottom holsters are 25 year old designs. Don't go near them. They serve no purpose except to create problems.

open muzzle design for gun holster closed bottom design for gun hoslter

Disadvantages to closed bottom holsters:

  1. Allows dirt to accumulate in the holster. The dirt/dust has nowhere to go because the holster is sewn closed.
  2. Allows dirt to accumulate in the barrel of the gun, usually the first 1/8 of the barrel.
  3. Holds moisture in the holster and on the weapon.
  4. No air flow in and out of holster.
  5. The holster is about 1” to an 1-1/2” longer at the bottom than it needs to be. It’s a concealment holster, less is better.

Advantages to open bottom holsters:

  1. Dirt cannot accumulate in the holster.
  2. You will not get dirt in the barrel of the gun from the holster.
  3. Does not hold moisture because of the open muzzle design.
  4. Allows air flow in and out of holster.
  5. Its a nicer looking and more compact design.

There is no right answer, it’s what you are most comfortable drawing with. However, where you carry on your body can help you determine straight drop or canted. If you are carrying from the side of your hip (3 o'clock) to the small of the back (5 o'clock) a cant is better as in the picture below. If you are carrying from the side of the hip (3 o'clock) to the belly button (12 o'clock), a straight drop is better. At the hip (3 o'clock) both straight drop or cant is acceptable.

gun holster position chart no canter gun holster position

This is a good question because it’s not what you are used to seeing when it comes to a rivet. The rivet on our clip holsters is a specially manufactured exclusive rivet for High Noon Holsters. It is sandwiched between the two pieces of leather. This is done on purpose and is a manufacturing trade secret that High Noon Holsters holds along with the manufacturer of the rivet.

The reason why it is done this way is because in our testing, if the rivet is not hidden it will eventually wear a hole in the holster or tucked in shirt (tuckable models). A normal rivet would roll over the leather to hold the clip in place, this is exactly what we did not want, metal rubbing against the holster and/or tucked in shirt. So, in other words, we did not forget to install the rivet, it did not push its way thru the leather and the hole is supposed to be there. This is what our exclusive rivet looks like installed.

gun holster rivet on strap

The fibers on the holster are compressed during the molding process. It’s really a break in period that will go away when the leather relaxes and breaks in. Also, the squeak is sometimes caused by the two pieces of leather rubbing against each other, like a holster- belt combo. There are times when it may never go away completely. Remember we are working with a natural product, its leather. Each and every piece is unique in its own way. Sometimes you just do not know why. You can try these two things.

  1. Sprinkle a little bit of talc (baby powder) on the threads and seams of the holster and or belt. Work it into the stitching and that will remove much of the squeak. A toothbrush helps get the powder deep into the seams.
  2. Rub the belt with white candle wax where the holster rides.

NEVER USE anything like neetsfoot oil or mink oil on the holster. This will make your holster SOFT. These products were developed for other leathers not gun holsters.

Getting the full size holster and putting the compact size gun in it seems like a good idea, at first. You get one holster for both guns, but in reality when you put the smaller size gun in the full size holster you will be left with extra unnecessary length in the barrel of the holster. You will not like it. This is supposed to be a concealed carry holster, something that no one is supposed to see. Now if you get the compact size holster and try to put the full size in it there is still an issue. The front site of the full size gun will sometimes catch on the smaller holster when drawing. This is because you are putting a gun in there that is too big for the holster. The leather does not cover the gun. We recommend that you get the proper size holster for each gun.

What most people do not understand is that many different elements go into a holster design. We spend a lot of time and money on just one design. There are many different things to consider when making a holster. Even a “small” modification will often change the dynamics of the entire holster. So, one small modification really means many different modifications. Then, there are prototypes to consider and time worn to ensure proper function. We wish we could take every request.

High Noon Holsters has been designing holster since 1996. There have been an incredible amount of ideas that we have pursued that for whatever reason just did not work. However, feel free to make suggestions. Many new ideas come from our customer’s suggestions. Please do not be offended if we tell you we cannot do it.

High Noon Holsters was the first in the industry to reinforce gun belts with a synthetic insert (two pieces of leather with a synthetic insert in the middle). When you are carrying a gun you need a good gun belt. Your belt is your first line of defense. The same thing will always happen to the belt unless you reinforce it, it will sag and lose its shape and rigidity. If it’s cowhide, horsehide or bullhide (however its marketed) the leather will stretch and the fibers will break down eventually and lose its rigid new feeling. That’s the nature of the material, it stretches. That is why break-in instructions are given with holsters. They enable you to stretch your leather holster out to have the fit you want. The cowhide, horsehide or bullhide fibers break down unless you synthetically reinforce the belt like we do. Your leather belt will never lose its shape with the reinforcement.

Since High Noon started making reinforced gun belts; many other companies now produce their own. They often tout how thick their belts are. Thick does not necessarily mean good. If the belt is too thick then it is bulky and often times impossible to clip a holster onto it or even a cell phone. It is the inside that counts. Customers describe our belts as if someone is holding or pushing the gun against their body all day. Now that’s a good feeling instead of it hanging and pulling on you.

We do not have a compensation system set up for discounts. Two reasons for this, one is it would be too hard to keep track of the paper work and the second is it becomes a big game where people refer the company out just cause they can get a discount. When you hear good things about High Noon Holsters you know it is because of 100% satisfaction, not because they can get a discount or build up referral points for a free holster. Some makers do offer this; we feel it’s unfair to the consumer.

No, our dyed holsters do not bleed. We are experienced manufacturers. The leather, the dye, the finish, etc. all have to work together; if they do not get along, you have a problem. It’s not normal for the holster to bleed.

Amateurs, part timers and hobbyists only have one option when buying dye and that is to purchase it off the shelf, whatever the supplier or distributor, has to offer. This is where most of the problems come from; they are cheap inefficient dyes. They are not professional grade products. They can never tweak the product to make it better because they are buying in small quantities. So they have to find a dye that they think works. We do not use suppliers or distributors. High Noon Holsters deals directly with the dye manufacture. The dye company will tweak the ingredients to be exactly the way we want it to be. Let us explain; the dye may dry too slowly, it may make the holster soft, it may make the holster hard, the dye could be weak in color, forcing you to double dye in two separate sessions to get a good color, etc. All these things can be tweaked or adjusted when running our own large dye lot. The part time hobbyist cannot do this, so they are at the mercy of the “off the shelf” market and this is why there is a problem with holsters bleeding in the industry. Not all off the shelf dyes are bad, they are just not as good as the ones made to a maker’s specifications.

Sometimes a holster will bleed when you first get it but then it never happens again. This is called gassing out. You get that slight black rub off because it was just dyed. This is also rare but it does happen. If the holster keeps bleeding something is wrong.

We can manufacture holsters either way, ruff side out or smooth side out. But we had to pick just one way to do it for our inside the waistband holsters. Rough side out construction has been used since the beginning of time with great success. A good example would be the old west. Rough side out boots and chaps were common in the old west because they held up better at least in appearance compared to smooth leather subjected to the same abuse. Manufacturing with the rough side out gives a few big advantages. With the leather we use, the rough side out has so much more grip to it than a smooth side out holster for inside the waistband carry. With the smooth side in it will protect your gun because now it is a leather lined holster. A leather lined holster has a slick draw and protects your guns finish better than the rough leather side. Rough side out does not show as much wear and does not get scratched and dinged up like the smooth side out holsters. It just takes abuse with a better attitude.

We can only design it so low before you cannot get a combat grip on the gun. You need to get a combat grip on the gun fast, which means your whole hand around the gun. If you wear a low riding holster, you will not be able to get a full firing combat grip on the gun and draw in one motion. You will have to use your thumb and two fingers to get the pistol moving out of the holster and then re-grip the gun during the presentation. There is nothing wrong with that, as long as you know that information before the presentation keeping in mind it is slow and risky under stress. We do offer low ride holsters for deep concealment, the Hidden Ally, the Hideaway , the Hidden Impact and the Mister Softy.

Breaking in a holster is all a matter of personal preference. Different people have different likes and dislikes, different strength and weakness, different injuries in different parts of the body. It is not possible for us to be able to anticipate every person’s individual preference. So our holsters are generally made tight. Also, keep in mind that some finishes can cause more friction when holstering a gun than other finishes. This can cause the gun to feel like it is sticking as you try to holster for the first few times. The best thing is for you to customize the break in of your holster, the way you like.

The locations on the body are illustrated in "clock" positions. This is for a right handed shooter. 12 o’clock being directly in front of you, while going clockwise around your body, 3 o’clock is at your right side hip or side of body, 6 o’clock is directly behind you at your spine.

We have found thru R&D that it does not work well if the buckle tongue has the stiffener going thru it as it serves no purpose. We prefer when the belt stiffener stops at the belt holes. However, if you request the belt to be made with the stiffener thru the holes we will be happy to make you a custom made belt the way you want. You will need to call (727)939-2701 or email us Questions@highnoonholsters.com with this request before you order.

It is fairly common to see department stores promoting merchandise as being "Genuine Leather". The problem with using a term like "Genuine Leather " is it offers no details about specifically what kind of leather it is. Then again, maybe that's the point...

In general, there are five different grades of leather: bonded, split grain, top grain, belting, and full grain. High Noon Holsters uses full grain and belting leather.

  1. Bonded leather is leather that is made of bits or scraps of leather which are then 'bonded' together into a single piece of leather. In the manufacturing process, this type of leather may be made to look like a single piece of leather, but it lacks the strength of a single piece of hide. Another comparison you may relate to is real wood and particleboard. It is an engineered wood product manufactured from wood particles, such as wood chips, sawmill shavings, or even saw dust, and a synthetic resin or other suitable binder, which is pressed and extruded.
  2. Split grain leathers are the next grade up. Manufacturers typically split hide into the outer most and inner most layers. The inner most layer of hide that is produced in this process is called split grain leather. Because it is a single piece of hide, instead of multiple pieces bonded together, split grain leather offers more strength and better life than bonded leather. When something is labeled "genuine leather", it is typically a split grain or bonded material.
  3. Top grain leathers are made of the outer most layer of the hide, processed or sanded to hide serious imperfections in the leather. Top grain leathers are stronger than split grain leathers because this outer layer of the hide is the most durable. Top grain leathers may be formed in the manufacturing process to look like exotic skins such as alligator or ostrich. In other words imprint a design into the leather.
  4. Full grain leathers are made of the outer most layer of the hide. Unlike top grain leathers, full grain leathers are not sanded or processed; rather, the beauty of the natural markings is left untouched. In general, full grain leathers are preferable because they offer a combination of strength, durability and appearance. Though full grain leathers are generally preferred for their strength, appearance and durability, they are generally more expensive than other grades of leather. Depending on the tanning process, full grain leathers can be manufactured to look and perform very differently.
  5. Belting leather gets its name from its original application; belting leather was manufactured to drive pulley belts in early industrial plants. Special care in the tanning process makes belting leather one of the stiffest and strongest leathers.

Yes, we do for most of our holsters. We spend a good amount of time finishing the inside of the holster; it’s just as important as the outside. For those that are extremely particular about the finish on their gun, you will be happy to know most of our IWB (inside the pants) holsters are lined with smooth leather. We construct a rough side out holster for its gripping properties and leather line the inside so it is gentle to your gun’s finish. Outside the pants are lined with synthetic suede.

The holster does not need it to function, however, if you want the ultimate interior then go ahead and get it, you will not be disappointed. More lining info here.

There is no correct answer here, people have varying degrees of strength. What feels good to one person does not feel good for another. Most of the tension will be coming from the belt when the holster and gun are being carried. Some people make the mistake of setting the tension too tight. The tension screw should hold the gun in the holster snug, while allowing you a comfortable draw. You will need to find a good combination of the two so you are comfortable drawing. You may want to put a drop of non-permanent loc tite or clear nail polish on the threads after you are comfortable with the setting. This will prevent the screw from backing out. We do like you to check the holster before each use but we know some will not do this.

Remove the gun and allow the holster to air dry slowly with any type of fan. Do not use forced hot air, like from a hair dryer. That will dry out and shrink the leather.

Some manufacturers make their belts pre-curved to fit the body. The claim is that they are more comfortable this way. If we thought this was true, we would make our belts pre-curved. After a few weeks of wear, any belt will curve to YOUR specific body shape.

A sight track is a channel in the holster or a material sewn into the leather which allows the front sight of the gun to exit the holster without scraping or gouging leather as it is drawn.

iwb gun holster with stiching in the side

Your card is charged when you place the order.

We ship all our leather custom made holsters within 2-3 weeks from date of order and our custom made Kydex/Hybrids within 2-4 weeks from date of order. Custom made holsters require many different steps to be completed in order to give you the highest quality holster that has been made to your specifications. Our "stocking" items ship within 5 days, however, most ship within 24 hours.

We ship orders complete.

Most holsters are friction fit, it will never slip in and out with ease, it’s not supposed to. The gun is rubbing against leather. Your belt’s tension also plays an important part in how the gun comes out of the holster. The belt flexes the holster which puts tension on the holster. It is good to have a slight drag on the gun. You want your gun secure in the holster. You also have to figure in the gravest extreme, when adrenaline is pumping thru your body and you will not even feel any drag at all.

This happens sometimes with new holsters but it should not be an issue once the holster is broken in. To prevent this from happening your thumb should always be on the rear of the slide holding the gun in battery and pushing in while you reholster. This is so the user has complete confidence that the gun is ready to go. You should do this on any holster you have not just a tight or new one. It’s a good practice to get into.

One handed reholstering is very important for police officers who might be putting their gun away to cuff a suspect, dragging their partner, opening the door to their cruiser, transitioning to your long gun, etc. The basic idea is that they need their hands free.

If you are going to a shooting class or if you like to practice, that would be an important feature to have on your holster. For the average civilian, in a self-defense situation you may not need it. You will be shooting and calling 911 letting them know you are the good guy and surrendering your weapon upon arrival. However, there may be a few situations where one handed reholstering may serve an important purpose. When the police get to the scene it would be a good idea to have the gun holstered instead of in your hand. So, you might like the idea of putting your gun away after shooting easily with one hand. Also, you might be grabbing a child or pet and moving away from whatever you just shot, locking a door or doing several other things and having one handed reholstering makes it easy to have two free hands.

Some people will have you believe you need one handed reholstering or you are ill equipped and that’s just not true. Every person has different likes and dislikes, some cannot wear an extreme duty holster that has one handed holstering capabilities. They need a thin simple holster that just holds the gun in a stable platform for when they need it.

With all that said you could always just stick the gun in your waist band and not worry about getting it back in the holster until the cops get there. It all comes down to personal preference and the job you need the holster to do. The truth is eventually you will have both kinds of holsters in your collection, some will be able to do one handed reholstering and some will not.

If you have a choice, we suggest using a 1.5" wide gun belt to attain the best possible holster support. If you have to use a 1.25” because of dress clothes, this will work fine but the 1.5" gives more support.

If you compare the exact same holster, horse or cow, lined or unlined, they will be the same weight and thickness.

A thumb break is a retaining strap secured by a snap and released by a pushing motion of the thumb. A thumb break usually secures the weapon in the holster by means of a strap going over the hammer, or rear of the gun. A thumb break should release with a quick, positive, crisp, motion that doesn't have a "spongy" feeling or require any excess motion. To achieve this, we reinforce a piece of steel to the thumb portion of the break.

Carry position and angle differ from person to person. There is no correct answer to this question. There is no one spot that is best and it can change, you are never locked in to one location. The best advice is to experiment as much as you can. Once you find where the firearm best conceals on your body, is most comfortable and you can draw with good speed then practice as much as possible.

Contrary to popular belief, cordovan is much more than just a color. Shell cordovan is very special leather that comes from a horse's hindquarters. In this area, lies two oval pieces of leather sufficient to make about the size of two pairs of shoes. These hides must be slowly tanned, nourished with natural oils, shaved and then polished the old-fashioned way. It’s a very rare piece of horse. We are not willing at this time to get into the custom market to this extreme.

The tension screw will allow for fine adjustments of the draw. We all have different strengths in our body, are different ages and have different injuries, so what’s a loose draw to one, is a tight draw to another. Our wet molded holsters do not usually need to have the tension screw tightened down too much when you first receive the holster but as the holster goes thru the break in process it may loosen up. It also may not loosen up. The non-molded holsters sometimes need the tension screw tightened down immediately. It is all personal preference.

If you like to have more draw tension now, you have that option, if it does not need additional tension then leave it alone. Inevitably cowhide or horsehide or any animal's hide will stretch. When the holster stretches the tension screw allows the user to adjust the tension to where he or she feels comfortable. It is a nice option to be able to apply more tension on the draw if you need to. You can in some cases tighten it down so much that can be difficult to get the gun out of the holster. This is a good idea if you are out on your ATV, motorcycle or horseback riding.

It is difficult to design a tension screw into a holster. It takes much more skill as a designer. The tension setup has to be perfect, a centimeter either way and it does not work. It also takes longer to get the design right. It’s more difficult and time consuming in the wet molding manufacturing process, takes more money stocking the hardware and then more assembly time out the door to the customers. This is why you do not see a lot of holsters on the market with tension screws. It is just easier to design a holster without a tension screw. We feel it’s worth the extra money and effort to include this option on our holsters.

Also, the tension screw has nothing to do with the fitment of the weapon in the holster. Its job is not to help fill space because of a bad fit. It does not work well in that role. The tension screw’s job is to enable the holster to have the tension you want.

If you wear your pants so tight that you cannot get your hand between your pants and your body, then you may need to get the next size bigger. A general rule is if you can get your hand between your pants and your body (without your belt on) then you are good to go for an inside the waistband holster. You may not need to buy new pants. But some people find it more comfortable going a size bigger. There is no correct answer here, it depends on you. Experiment, see what works.

A good holster design will allow a full firing grip or combat grip as soon as the gun is grasped. Which means you get your whole hand on the gun and draw in one motion, your middle finger should be just at pants level without getting in the way of your pants line. This means that you can draw your gun and comfortably fire it without having to shift the position of your hand on the gun in order to attain a more comfortable grip.

Now with that said we do manufacture holsters that are low ride for deep concealment. That draw would be a two stage draw, two fingers to pull the gun up because it's in there so deep and then you have to position and shift your whole hand on the gun to draw. The second step gets you into the combat grip position. This type of draw is slower than a combat grip draw; however, your job for the holster may be deep concealment because that is what you need. The speed of the draw is second to the deep cover you require. It all depends what is important to you in a holster and what job you need the holster to perform.

Gun holster leather is tanned using the "vegetable tan" method not the "chrome tan" method. Chrome tanned leather is what you will find in shoes, jackets, wallets, and certain outdoor leathers like that used to make motorcycle saddlebags or motorcycle chaps. Chrome tan leather cannot be shaped and molded like holster leather.

Vegetable tanned leather, which is what we use for making quality holsters, is not tanned with any kind of salts. Vegetable tanning uses only organic substances like live oak bark, tree bark, beets, walnut shells, clay, plant extracts or other vegetable matter containing tannins, or in other words, natural chemicals to tan the leather. Just as a comforting thought for you, perspiration and humidity will have a far more damaging effect on a firearm than any chemical traces left from modern tanning processes.

The benefit of this tanning process is that it provides a leather that will not cause your weapon to rust or corrode.

We try to constantly update the lists of guns that we make holsters for. However, we may have missed one of them or we list it a little differently than you are used to seeing it written. If you don't see your gun model call (727)939-2701 or E-mail Questions@HighNoonHolsters.com and just ask us.

The tanning oils and chemicals used in the tanning process.

Most members of the general public could not spot a firearm related bulge even if you pointed it out to them. When you are new to concealed carry you are super self-conscious about carrying a gun. Do not be preoccupied with printing. A little bulge here or there will occur, don't sweat it no one will scream gun!!! Plan instead to keep it covered so that routine activity will not display your firearm needlessly. Also keep in mind, a holster is not a magic bullet, it’s just ONE of the ingredients in the recipe to concealment.

Remember that leather is a natural material and should never be stored in plastic because it encourages the growth of mildew and bacteria and will ruin the leather. Always store leather in a cool dry place away from heat.

You will have to pay for shipping back to us and a 10% restocking fee for all returned products.

The longer barrel guns have more of a problem with this than the shorter barrel guns. We have included in the design of our inside the pants holsters a small amount of play in the straps and clip. What we do when we sit: shift the handle of the weapon to the right (right handed people) so now the gun and holster is slanted so it will not dig into your thigh when sitting. Left handed people just shift the gun to the left.

The Skin Line are all non-molded holsters. They were not made for one handed reholstering. However, they do take a self-mold of your gun after 2 weeks of wearing. The whole holster will not stay open because it’s not wet molded, but you will be able to get the muzzle of your gun in there and then just push. The wet molded holsters are for one handed reholstering.

If you want it to stay looking just like it did when you took it out of the box......... put it back in the box.

We have oiled it, sealed it and have done anything else that needs to be done to it before it left here. If anything, the occasional application of paste shoe polish to touch up surface wear is all that is needed on outside the pants holsters. Inside the pants needs nothing except maybe a wipe down with a damp cloth. Never use anything like saddle soap or mink oil. It will make your holster too soft. We oil them as part of the manufacturing process and that should be enough for the life of the holster.

Whatever you do to leather will change its appearance in some way. This, as well as normal use, will make the item uniquely yours. If the leather stays dry it will give you years of use. What really destroys leather is mold growing on it. It feeds on the fibers so eventually the leather gets dry and powdery similar to dry rot in wood. Just putting on oil will not repair the leather. Mold comes from damp humid conditions. You need to combat this quickly. If it gets wet and dried repeatedly, it will eventually need to have the oil in the leather restored for looks and flexibility, more oil will darken leather, but more importantly it should not be left in a damp enclosed environment where mold can grow. If it gets wet the leather needs to be dried. Remove the gun and allow the holster to air dry slowly with any type of fan. Do not use forced hot air, like from a hair dryer. That will dry out and shrink the leather.

The U.S.A. generates most of the hides used in the leather making process. The hides are preserved in salt until they reach the tanning factories around the world. We use only U.S. tanned hides.

Stocking item means that we have the product, already manufactured, ready to be shipped, for the guns, magazine carriers, belts, etc. that are listed on the availability list of the page you came from. It’s just a matter of paper work, getting your order through the USPS/UPS system so you can get a tracking number e-mailed to you and the product can be shipped. Most times the product is out of our factory in about 1 to 5 days depending on the day’s volume. Please remember there are orders ahead of yours.

First, let’s get the obvious out of the way; you need a good reinforced gun belt, like our Rock Steady Line or our Tactical Belt Line. Our belts hold the gun against your body so a piece of paper cannot separate you. With that said, it's really not the holster causing the moving and shifting. All holsters will move as you move. It’s the fact that you are carrying a 1lb+ piece of metal or polymer around on your body. Think of it like this, you are in a car crash going 30 mph. The car stops upon impact, but now the contents of the car start to move at 30 mph. If the seat belts are on, you get a jerking movement. So, now imagine you are the car, your gun belt is the seat belt and your gun and holster are the contents. You do some quick bending and twisting, and get some movement because guess what, you just had a minor crash. That's what happens to you and your gun thru out the day. This is the reason you need a good belt to hold the gun and absorb most of the little jerks, turns and twist throughout your day. There will be always some type of movement depending on what you are doing but you can minimize it with a good belt.

We size the straps on our inside the waistband holsters 1 3/4” to fit a 1 ½” belt perfectly. You need the extra room so the straps work as intended and you can snap it over your belt. If it was sized perfectly 1 ½” straps for a 1 ½” belt you could not snap the holster on your belt, it would be way too tight. Instead you would be forced to pull your belt through the loops, which makes snaps on inside the waistband holsters redundant.

You may experience "fuzz" all over the trigger guard, trigger, ejection port and in the end of the barrel. Keep in mind minor fuzz will not stop your gun from working. You get fuzz and lint from carrying under normal circumstances. Fuzz will not be a problem. You should get into a good habit and wipe your gun down and inspect it after every carry day. Holsters are also friction fit, you will get rubbing, it is normal. When you get this rubbing against the leather, the hard piece of steel/polymer, which is your gun, wins every time. The gun is harder and sharper then the leather. This situation is very normal, in fact it’s part of the break in process. This is called etching . It is common for the inside of a leather holster to scratch from a single holstering. A smooth leather lined holster will be even more subject to this normal occurrence. After this initial etching the holster will custom fit your handgun.

Also, keep in mind this is just normal wear, tear and break-in. It will stop in time. But sometimes you may have a slide stop, ejection port or other parts of your gun that are just too sharp. If it does not stop, you could round off the sharp edges with some sand paper, if you are handy. Or a much BETTER IDEA is to bring it to a gunsmith that knows what he is doing and let them do it for you. They may charge for something like that or do it for free if you bought the gun from them. The gun companies now offer guns already melted down and rounded off some call them Anti-Snag etc etc.

With that said we know the next question, but I bought the same holster for my XYZ gun and it does not do this, something is wrong with the holster. Please remember, all guns are not shaped the same, they have different edges. Some are also buffed out to remove sharp points, a good idea, some are super sharp. We are stuck with the problem of designing around the guns shape, which means all the designs are different and work different because of the shape of that particular gun. The etching process will vary with each different holster and shape of the gun. Remember, it's just a piece of leather and will lose in a fight with a sharp razor.

When it comes to pocket holsters we do not have an open field to design around, we only have the dimensions of a pants pocket to design around and the odd shape of your gun. That limits what we can and cannot do; there is only so much room. We do state and let you know up front that the Pocket Grabber designs vary depending on hand gun model. We know some people are going to miss this, we apologize, but it is in the description of the holster, in plain view.

pocket holster from high noon holsters pocket holster from high noon holsters

The smaller guns will have a tab or “tail”. The bigger gun designs will look like the pictures above.

That’s just normal with a leather tuckable type holster. The whole holster is supported by the flap sewed, riveted, screwed etc., at the bottom. So any shift up top will affect the bottom and any shift at the bottom will affect the top. Generally speaking the smaller the gun the less this happens because it’s lighter in weight and shifts less, but it still happens. A good gun belt like our Rock Steady Line or our Tactical Line can help minimize this.

Our holsters do not need any oil, conditioner, silicones, etc. at all. Depending on the holster, it is oiled here and then sealed. Our sealer will repel any oil you try to put on the holster. Oils, conditioners, silicones, etc. can destroy the finish, make the holster soft, etc.

Here are some important things to check:

  1. Do you have a good reinforced gun belt like one from our Rock Steady Line or or Tactical Belt Line?
  2. Is the holster riding against your body so a piece of paper cannot separate you?
  3. Are you just being self-conscious? (See #34 Q: Why doesn't my holster conceal well?)
  4. Are you are dressed to conceal? You MUST arrange your clothing around your gun, not the other way around.
  • A holster does not conceal the gun, it’s just a platform to hold it when you need it. Some important things to consider when carrying a gun are: your choice of gun, your choice of belt, where on your body you carry and most of all the clothing you wear. These four things do most of the concealment. You have to get the proper combination for you. Most people buy the gun first and think about concealment later. Many get a big surprise about the gun they bought when they try to carry concealed.
  • We look at the gun as the accessory, not the holster. You should look at concealment holsters first, see the options available, go over pros and cons, and then your choice of gun will become an easy decision. Many people buy guns that very few holsters are made for; they are just not mainstream popular guns. You hear about everyone's dreaded box of unused holsters and how they do not work, well it’s not the holster’s fault or the company.

We can guarantee you, some people buy the wrong gun for their body type, wear it in the wrong place for concealment purposes and then try and make it work. You can't take a square peg and shove it into a round hole. You need the right tool for the right job and it’s not an easy task getting it right. Every human body is a different shape and we all have different likes and dislikes. And let’s mention physical injuries we have acquired. What works for your friend may not work for you. This is one of the reasons we have a 14 day return policy. We are glad you are reading this FAQ page, you will get an education here that will help you make a correct choice for you.

Pocket carry is all about the cut of your pants and the size of your pocket for concealment purposes.


  1. Comfort.
  2. Not possible to accidentally flash weapon.
  3. You could have your hand on the gun if you suspect a problem. Not only can you have your hand on your weapon, it looks normal and casual.
  4. If you have to go hand-to-hand - superior retention.
  5. Convenience, less attire sensitive, with a small enough pistol you can pretty much wear anything and still be somewhat protected.
  6. Thin and hugs the thigh.


  1. Access to the gun while seated is limited.
  2. Access to the gun while running is limited.
  3. Caliber is limited.
  4. Dust, lint and dirt, needs to be cleaned much more frequently than IWB or OWB. Pocket lint gets everywhere.

They attach to the holster side of the rig and the magazine side of the rig and then to the belt. Many people like them because it keeps the rig from swaying and flopping around and also helps on the draw keeping the holster in place. The thought process for tie downs is it is better to have, than to have not. You may find that you do not need them all the time but do like them sometimes. You can always order them at a later date, but why pay the cost of shipping again. You are already paying shipping on the present order. Most people get them with the rig.

Most of us have adapted to a lot of things in our lives, and most have experienced pain and discomfort at some point, on some level. For some, annoyances can easily be overcome. Most can tolerate or even ignore pain and discomfort for a period of time until it's no longer an issue and he/she has become adapted. It is usually not the holster that is uncomfortable; it's the chunk of metal/polymer that you are trying to carry that is the problem. If anything the holster gives you a pillow like effect from the gun. Wear the holster with no gun in it, most will have no problem wearing just the holster. Now put the gun in there and it's a different story. So with that said you may have chosen a gun that’s too big for you. There are better, slimmer, smaller choices available. Also, if your pants were tight to begin with and now you are trying to get a gun and holster in there it will make it even more uncomfortable.

What needs to happen is you need to give your body a chance to adapt. So how does one get used to concealed carry? Our suggestion is once the holster starts to really hurt, try adjusting the positioning to alleviate the immediate discomfort, now, tough it out an extra hour or so. If it still hurts take it off for a while, but not longer than two hours. Now start the process all over again, trying to keep the holster on longer than the last time. This is a way for your body to get accustomed to wearing a gun and holster. Each subsequent time this happens, the discomfort will be less and less until one day it's not there at all. It all depends on one's determination. There are a lot of holster options out there, and you will find the perfect one sooner or later. But do not give up so quick, so many people make the mistake of putting on a gun and holster and in an hour they take it off and never get used to it. Be determined to give it a try and make it work. Thousands of people strap on guns and holsters every day. If they can do it, so can you. There is no secret; it's all getting your body to adapt to the equipment. This solution works and it's from personal experience from all of us here at High Noon.

Clothing selection is one of the pieces to the concealment puzzle. With the right clothing, you can conceal quite a bit. If you like to wear fitted trendy outfits, you are going to have a hard time even concealing a pocket gun. In other words form fitted tight clothes are of no help. Some people obsess over finding the closest fitting holster, even at the expense of other factors. However, we have learned that true concealment is obtained as an entire package, not just holster selection. These days, you need a holster that offers a good blend of concealment, size, retention, and speed.

Finding the right cover garment for your body type is the key to concealment. Extra length in the back helps so it doesn't uncover, and a roomy waist area is always good. Prints and patterned shirts help break up the outline of the gun if you do start to print. Darker color shirts conceal better than light. The other consideration is fabric of a cover garment. If going with a polo-type or a t-shirt, the soft, clingy fabrics that drape off you tend to be a little form-fitting and susceptible to printing. Printing is going to happen a bit, just know it and plan ahead. Once you have the right setup, you also need to watch how you move. If picking something up, don't bend over from the waist, or you will risk printing. Squat down and pick it up. This will take a while to get used to but in time will become an ingrained habit. Remember, you are more aware of your printing than anyone else will be. If giving someone a hug, under hook their arms so they don't risk feeling your pistol.

The important thing is that you are aware. Being aware is number one. Be aware of what's happening whatever you are doing and arrange yourself accordingly. Don't wait until you feel the draft of air on your side blowing in under your shirt and over the grip of your pistol, prepare beforehand. Just feel it and rearrange yourself accordingly before it happens since you already know when it might happen. Head it off at the pass! It will become easier to carry the more you do it and there's really no reason to change the way you carry your gun if it’s comfortable, but there are many good reasons for you to change your habits that are not helpful when carrying a gun, and these methods can be very discreet, simple and nobody will be the wiser that you are indeed carrying.

Make any sense?


  • There are a few objectives of any concealment holster ----- security, access, concealment, retention and one-hand re-holstering ability.
  • Security ----- The holster should hold the gun in place, while you get in and out of cars, and so on. You don't spend your life sitting still, and in a fight you sure as heck aren't standing still.
  • Access ----- The holster should provide access to the gun in a short amount of time in compromised positions, like when you are strapped in a car seat. Further the gun should be held in a stable position, so that the draw can be consistent and reliable under stress.
  • Concealment ----- The holster should not be so ill designed that it lets the gun be visible or "print" through concealing garments. With that said, we feel holsters do not really conceal the gun, you need all the pieces of the puzzle.
  • One-hand re-holstering ----- This feature is useful if your hands will be tied up with other things immediately after firing or challenging a suspect with your gun, such as handcuffing him, restraining him, holding onto innocents (such as a spouse or children), and so on. This capability is absent in holsters made of thin material, and inherent in holsters made of rigid materials. We use a synthetic reinforcement on our extreme duty leather holsters to keep the mouth open when the gun is drawn.
  • Retention ----- Holsters either have something holding the gun in them other than friction or they don't. Speed scabbards, or open-top holsters, have none, and these are generally preferred for concealed carry. A simple-and the oldest-retention device is the thumb-break, in which a strap of material over the top of the gun is un-snapped with the thumb as the gun is drawn. These are reasonable devices as they slow down the draw-stroke only a bit, but they do make it more complicated, which is the real concern. There are now many kinds of retention devices available on concealment holsters (and more still on police duty holsters), and they usually involve one or more digits of the drawing hand releasing one or more levers as the gun is drawn. Some are more intuitive than others.

The need for retention devices is very real for exposed guns, such as on a uniformed police duty belt-they help prevent bad guys from simply yanking a cop's own gun out of his/her holster. But the need for such devices is less in concealment holsters, particularly for non-sworn citizens since the gun is (or should be) concealed, and no one should know it's there.

To make it simple, if you are a concealed carry permit holder or regular citizen, in our opinion you only need a thumb break or other retention device if you are riding a motorcycle or horseback riding. Other than that it slows you down and makes things more complicated.

Process and tradeoffs -----These characteristics can sometimes work against one another, so intelligent tradeoffs, based on your own lifestyle and threat assessment, are sometimes necessary. For example, retention devices will usually impede draw speed, as will a deeply concealed gun (example a low ride holster). A comfortable holster may not provide access under some conditions (example, most hip holsters are hard to access while seat-belted in a car.) Finding the right holsters for you is a process. You will not usually end up with just one holster.

There is a lot of poor quality holsters out there that should not even be sold to carry a gun. Some makers, importers or retailers just want to sell something to make a profit without any thought to function and design. This applies to most industries, not just the holster industry.

In the case of the Mister Softy, Split Decision, Hidden Ally, Center Fold, Upper Cut and Bare Asset we would like to add some thoughts to break the myth of the inexpensive holster from a quality manufacturer like us. It’s something many people do not think about. It’s what we call, the design intention of a holster. The design intention of a holster has a lot to do with the pricing of the holster when produced by a quality holster maker. What was the holster designed to do, what jobs can it handle, lite duty use or extreme duty use, one handed reholstering or not, etc.?

The Mister Softy, Split Decision, Hidden Ally, Center Fold, Upper Cut and Bare Asset's design intention was to be as thin and comfortable as possible while still providing a secure platform to hold the weapon. They get the job done in a big way, it gets someone in the IWB game for very little money and the reason is we are working super close on the pricing. Sometimes you just do not want a fat holster that does everything. Less is better in some cases. Now you have to remember when you go that thin with the leather it does not support features like one handed reholstering, site tracks and sweat shields. But that was not the intention, the intention was keep it simple.

With that said we do not think you can find a better bang for the buck, design wise, materials, service and warranty. Also, these are not one size fits all. They were designed around the gun. The tolerances are tight.

We do manufacture IWB holsters that have all the bells and whistles. These were designed with a different job to do. They have a reinforcement around the mouth of the holster, thick leather, stitched in site track, wet molded around the gun you order it for, one handed reholstering, etc. Hopefully this helps some people understand the design intentions of our holsters and what jobs they were made for and why they are priced a certain way.

Belt Holsters (OWB): Belt holsters are very popular holsters and they ride on a belt outside the pants on the strong side. Pancake holsters are made of two pieces of material with the gun sandwiched between them, and they have two or more belt slots like our Slide Guard. "Askins" or "Avenger" type hip holsters are made of one piece of material folded around the gun, and usually have a belt slot on the rear of the holster and a belt loop sewn on the back of it like our Need For Speed and Swift Skin. The pancake style provides more leverage on the gun to pull it close to the body, and thus is a bit more concealable.

Inside-the-waistband holsters (IWB): They are worn inside the pants and attach to the belt with straps or clips. These are the most concealable type of holster, but may require pants that are about an inch or two more room in the waist measurement than you normally wear, depending on what type of gun you have chosen. Our IWB’s, like the Down Under, have the rough side of the leather on the outside to help keep the holster anchored in one place. Some IWB’s, like our Tailgunner, have an extra "flange" or "tab" to the rear to help anchor the holster and gun even more.

Cross draw holsters: They are worn on the off side of the body. They are less concealable than most other holsters because they have to be worn in front of the hip bone. Cross draw holsters are not that popular.

Shoulder holsters: They are essentially cross draw holsters. They have a place when the gun can't be worn on the hip, but they are specialty items. They require an open-front jacket, while most hip holsters and IWB holsters can be concealed by an un-tucked shirt. Vertical-carry shoulder holsters like our Under Taker or Under Armor are best for very large guns. Horizontal-carry shoulder holsters are best for normal carry guns, and they can be worn high near the armpit or low near the floating rib like so many catalog pictures show.

Fanny packs: (worn in front) They are useful in hot weather when clothing is thin, but they make sitting and driving uncomfortable, and too many of them look like gun packs. They can be cut or ripped from your body.

Paddle holsters: They are held in place with a paddle attached to the holster that slides inside the pants and is held in place by belt tension. Their main virtue is the "quick-on, quick-off" capability. The better ones like our Speedy Spanky feature an adjustable paddle and locking tabs to keep the holster from coming out on a draw.

Ankle holsters: They are not appropriate for carrying your primary gun since you cannot move while drawing from them. They do have a place for back-up guns, though. There are many people that carry this way as a primary gun, it can be done, however, it will be more difficult to get to your gun if you need to. If this is the only way you can carry a gun then it’s better to have than to have not.

Pocket holsters: They are an under-looked option. They are a convenient way to carry a smaller gun, and require no concealing garment. Pocket carry is all about the cut of your pants and the size of your pocket for concealment purposes. Our Pocket Grabber has a unique way of drawing the gun so it stays in the pocket.

Small-of-the-back holsters: They carry the gun severely canted at the right center of the back at about a 5 o'clock position like our Bottom Line and Back Skin. It provides an unorthodox but effective form of covert carry, using the natural hollow adjacent to the small of the back as a place of concealment. The radical rake allows for an extremely fast, natural draw, as easy as reaching behind you. This is a task-specific holster and like all task-specific holsters, common sense dictates that there are some obvious situations where its use would not be appropriate, such as when seated in a vehicle, wearing several layers of clothing, etc. In short, any given set of circumstances that would prevent you from reaching behind you. In other situations, however, whether for principal weapon or for backup, this mode of concealed carry may be hard to beat. It all depends on what job you need to get done. Some people find this form of carry uncomfortable because the weapon is pressed up against the spine.

rear speedy spanky

We do not explain it on the holsters web page because the color has nothing to do with the holster’s function but the question does come up. The cost is higher because dying it black requires a different manufacturing process than the natural. When dyed black, it adds a lot of extra labor, many extra steps, and a more complicated process then the natural color. More detail below.

  1. Every piece has to be hand dyed separate.
  2. The site track cannot go thru our dye.
  3. The synthetic reinforcement cannot go thru our dye.
  4. Because of what the black dye does to the leather, the holster has to be soaked in a special solution before molding.
  5. The black dye now makes the holster more difficult to mold.
  6. The black color has to be sealed and clear coated.

It can work. However, there will be sacrifices. You have a choice, get the one for the 26 and put the 19 in and the barrel will stick thru, the front site is exposed and may also catch on the holster on the draw. Or, get the 19 and put the 26 in there and you will have extra leather left over at the end.

Most people like the gun and holster to fit perfect and we never recommend using the same holster for two different guns, as in the example above. We make specific sizes for a reason, to get the job done correctly and stack the odds in your favor. Protect your life with a gun that you will wear every day, a good quality holster and a good quality gun belt.

We do manufacture holsters that are low ride for deep concealment but the bulk of our inside the pants holsters are manufactured for a combat grip necessary for speed when drawing. The draw on a low ride deep concealment holster would be a two stage draw. First, use two fingers to pull the gun up because it's in there so deep. Second, position and shift your whole hand on the gun to draw. The second step gets you into the combat grip position. This type of draw is slower than a combat grip draw, no big deal though because your job for the holster may be deep concealment and that's what you need. The speed of the draw is second to the deep cover you require. It all depends what's important to you in a holster and what job you need the holster to perform.

A non-molded holster means the holster is designed around a gun but not wet molded under pressure to take on the gun's shape. The pocket is not pre-formed as in wet molding. You are forming the pocket as you insert the gun the first few times. Holsters are friction fit so these non-molded holster’s design tolerances are tight for very beneficial reasons. A break in period will be required, follow the instructions that come with the holster.

A molded holster means that the gun you pick from the drop down list when ordering, will be the gun that the holster is molded to. This holster will take the shape of your gun characteristics. No other gun will be able to fit in this holster, only what you ordered it for. A side by side example of a molded and non- molded holster are shown here. In the case of an inside the pants holster, molded to the gun of your choice, the molding will be visible on the inside because we use the rough side of the leather on the outside of the holster and the smooth side for the interior, so you get a true super slick leather lined holster.

molded gun holster closeup
Slide Guard gun holster closeup
non-molded gun holster closeup
Bare Skin gun holster closeup

We do not have the same needs each and every day or week or month. There are things to consider, changes in weather, clothes and what tasks are at hand that day. Know your body type, the different seasons of the year, your activities for the day, etc.

Your goal is to dress to conceal. You need to learn how to work it, learn to CONCEAL. Learn what size gun you can carry, what body type you have, where are your strong points, where are your weak points. Most of the complaints we get come from just plain lack of knowledge and it's the holster’s fault, " your holster makes my gun print". Holsters do not conceal your gun, in fact they make them look BIGGER. You conceal the gun by learning your particular body type, the size of gun you should be carrying, where on your body you can wear the gun, wearing a good gun belt that holds the gun against your body so a piece of paper cannot separate you, and what clothes to wear to conceal properly. You MUST arrange your clothing and lifestyle around your gun, not the other way around. Carrying a handgun can be both comfortable and comforting.

Holsters are one of those things you have to experiment with. Every person is built differently, and you likely aren't going to find your ideal carry rig on your first purchase unless you do your homework. You have to figure out what works for you or not. You actually need that; we call it a holster wardrobe. Depending on the days activates and what you wear, one holster will never do it.

Most people have more than one pair of shoes, more than one outfit and live somewhere that has some kind of climate change, no matter how mild or extreme. Some people wear an untucked t-shirt six days a week but wear a tucked in dress shirt on Sunday, for example. These people would need a tuckable holster for their Sunday attire. This is just one small example.

One holster WILL NOT DO IT. You need a holster wardrobe if you do it right. Don't just strap on the gun at the last minute before leaving the house. Plan your clothing to accommodate your day’s activities and concealing the firearm. Don't be afraid of a holster wardrobe, it’s part of concealed carry.

There are four things that need to be in place before we can start to answer this question.

  1. You have a good strong reinforced gun belt pushing the gun against your body.
  2. The gun and holster has to be placed on a flat part of your body.
  3. The holster is riding against your body so a piece of paper cannot separate you.
  4. You are wearing proper clothing that conceals the gun and holster.

The belt is the foundation of the carry system, you need a reinforced belt like our Rock Steady line, the belts job is to push the gun against your body so a piece of paper cannot separate you, the holsters job is to hold your gun where you want it, when you need it. Now placement on your body is crucial, it has to be in a spot that conceals well for your body type and you have to be able to get to the gun in a hurry. It HAS to be on a flat part of your body to conceal well, that's the main reason the handle is printing. If it's on your hip of course the handle will print, your gun does have a curved handle to follow the contour of your body. Push it back to the 4 or 5 o'clock position which is a flat part of your body. If it's a straight drop holster, no cant, worn in the appendix position and its printing it's your choice of clothes and placement.

At this point it's all up to you after these 4 things are in place. You have to be dressed to conceal. You MUST arrange your clothing and lifestyle around your gun, not the other way around. Don't just strap on the gun at the last minute before leaving the house. Plan your clothing to accommodate concealing the firearm. Also, sometimes it’s the user being self-conscious. (FAQ #34 Q: Why doesn't my holster conceal well?)

Its comparing Apples to Oranges, there is a world of difference. But it all depends on what job you want the holster to do and your needs. You need to find that out before you order. Sometimes your job will be simple, the thinner lite duty ones with basic features will take care of that in a big way and then sometimes your job is more complicated and you need the thicker extreme duty ones with all the bells and whistles. You should get both kinds, you will need them in your holster wardrobe.

Let's start with the thinner holsters: (Bare Asset, Mister Softy, Split Decision, Hidden Ally, Upper Cut, Center Fold)

These were designed to be as thin and comfortable as possible, along with that you lose features because the leather is thin. No one handed reholstering, no sweat guard, no site track and no fancy molding. We do include a tension screw for adjustment of the draw. These holsters are designed around the gun and cannot be molded cause of the leather being too thin. Do not make the mistake of discounting these holsters because of the low investment, they get the job done in a BIG way. Everyone needs a few of these in there holster wardrobe. An example would be, it could be a real hot and humid day, your clothes may be a bit on the tight side, sometimes clothes never fit the same from week to week anyway. So, all you need is a stable platform to hold the gun in case you need it, sometimes simple is the best way for that day's activities, that days weather, combined with that set of clothes. We find ourselves grabbing these holsters allot here in Florida. Again, you just want a stable platform to hold the gun when needed, this is the ticket to ride.

Now for the thicker holsters:

(Down Under series, Closing Argument, Public Secret Series, Alter Ego, Tail Gunner Series, Tailgate)

These were designed to be an extreme duty holster with every feature we could throw in. It features a sweat guard to protect you from the gun, the mouth is reinforced right up into the sweat guard for one handed reholstering, stitched in site track so you do not get a ball of leather on your front site when drawingand wet molded to the gun you order for. Also a tension screw for adjustment of the draw. Along with all this, the leather has to be thicker to support everything and they are labor intensive to make. Everyone needs a holster like this in there holster wardrobe, it's also no harder to conceal then the thinner ones if you know what you are doing in that department. It's the Rolls Royce of our inside the waist band line, a true work of art in leather. Great to practice with in front of a mirror drawing and redrawing. Great to bring to a gun class where you will be reholstering many times. It's a comforting feeling to have this holding your gun when you need it. But keep in mind it's a thicker bolder holster, you may not need or want all those features and the investment that goes with it.

It all comes down to your needs and the job you have for the gun, if you know them you will get the correct holster the 1st time. Many people just order without doing their home work and finding out what their real needs are after they get the holster. We hear it all the time, we call it the little bears syndrome. This holster is to thin, this holster is to fat, this holster will not one handed reholster, this one will. That's where the Internet myth of the dreaded box of holsters you had to go thru to get what you wanted comes from. When you read that on the forums , to us its pure BS. We are here to tell you, guess what someone did no research. Why waste money on shipping, take your time, research our site, call or E-mail your questions, we are here to help. The choices can be narrowed down to find your needs. And yes you will need a box of holsters, but lets get you a workable wardrobe that fills your needs.

public secret gun holster rear

Appendix carry is with a 0 cant holster and worn in the 12 to 2 position, it is not for everyone, some will love it and some will hate it. Its popularity has soared since about 2003 when no one heard of it. We started manufacturing holsters for this carry mode back in 1998. In fact no carry mode is for everyone or we would just make one holster and satisfy everyone. The facts are you need to choose what makes sense for you. So here is the information we have and our thoughts. If you have been looking for a good concealed carry concept that gives nothing up in terms of speed of access, this is it guys and gals. Give it a serious try with an open mind. We happen to like this mode very much here at High Noon.

Out Of The Gate

Out of the gate it is very fast to draw from and is much faster than the kidney position (4 or 5 o'clock) and it permits a locked wrist. It is faster than any other kind of carry based on physics and geometry alone. The Appendix position is less movement, and is easier to get the gun in action due to less arm motion in the draw. Some people never worry about quick deployment. This is probably because they have never been in an armed robbery where any fast motions indicative of a draw would be met with gun fire. Start to think about that one. You know those guys that fly armed on airplanes in case there is a terrorist on board? They tend toward appendix carry as well because their concealment requirements are quite high and need to get to the gun in a hurry.


Appendix Carry is easier to conceal than other types of carry. It is the most comfortable and convenient carry option sitting at a desk, sitting in a car with seat belts on, in a restaurant or in any upright seat with a firm back on it. Drawing does not require any shifting of upper torso, you cannot beat it, the gun is right there for you. Even just standing there your arms are always a second away.

Gun Grab

Should some "really nice person" and there are plenty of them out there, attempt to snatch your weapon from its holster, they "must" do so from the front where you can observe their actions. Also, if you are attempting to defend your weapon from a snatch, you are doing so with your non-dominant hand, leaving your dominant hand "the one you've practiced fighting with all your life" to wage combat with.

Down On The Ground

When fighting someone on the ground, it is exceedingly difficult to reach back to grab a pistol that was sandwiched between the ground and a person's body, if you are on your back. Yet, Appendix Carry will still allow you to do so. If you are face down, its still harder to move your arm back and get the gun at the 4 or 5 position, not everybody is that limber. Think of your fight starting with the bad guy knocking you down and now pummeling you on the ground. Think about getting grabbed from behind with a bear hug, you can still get to the gun very easily. Appendix wins , sunny side up or turned over. It's easier deployment in grappling or fighting situations.

Protecting The Gun

Appendix carry will let you protect the gun in crowded situations. With Appendix Carry, and some pushing and shoving going on, you can simply keep your arm across the holster and no one will ever know you are armed, protecting yourself at the same time. If you have to run its easier to run with your hand in the front holding the gun instead around your back. Why would you be holding your gun while running? Because you can run faster!!! You are holding the gun so you keep the gun from shifting up and down.

The Draw

When people are drawing their strong side holsters, 3 to 5 position, few do it without an upper torso shift, either slightly forward to deal with the holster's cant, or slightly toward their non-dominant side to facilitate clearing the high-ride holster's lip. It's an exaggerated movement and unnatural.

When people are drawing form the appendix position, there is no need for any torso shift. It can be done from a perfectly upright position, from a crouch, from a seat, from one's back. The only position that offers restriction is from the prone position. If you are prone (lying face down), you are already in trouble, so if you didn't draw your weapon as you were going prone, it means you are down and relatively helpless. But if you are down and relatively helpless, the bad guy can more easily get to your weapon if it is on the strong side. To take your appendix weapon, they must get under your body and flip you over.

Body Problems

Sometimes people that are extremely overweight have a problem with appendix carry. Our job is to get you the right holster that can win a gunfight decisively and not to criticize your eating habits. Remember we told you it's not for everyone, even in shape people sometimes do not like this carry mode. It may not work for your body type, so move on to something that does work, we have other options.

What We Make

We make two kinds, a low ride for deep concealment and a high ride combat grip for quicker access to the gun. Height of the holster from the belt line is a compromise low ride or high ride. Two ways to go here both have drawbacks and both have positives.

  1. The guys who want total concealment want it to ride as low as possible. Problem is that the lower it rides, the harder it is to get a grip on the gun when you draw.
  2. The guys who want to get to the gun quicker want a combat grip, it rides higher up and its slightly harder to conceal, but if you know what you are doing with clothes its really no problem. It's between six and a half dozen. Pick what's most important to you.

We think it's not needed, it's a concealment holster. Why call attention to some kind of logo stamped onto the front of a clip, especially on the tuckable holsters where the clip actually shows, talk about an attention grabber. It's better to fly under the radar. In this case less is better and having the element of surprise is a big advantage to someone carrying a concealed gun. The regular people may not notice but we have had many customers tell us the clips with logos sometimes open up strange conversations, the bad guys are well schooled and are looking for it. Our clips do not carry any company logo, they are plain. The plain clip against a black belt fools the eye, you do not even notice it. In other words let's give them nothing to talk about. Its not about bling, its about going unnoticed.

This is not a huge problem but it's a problem that does exist. Do not worry we have a fix at the end of this. First, it's not the holster, it's the design of your pants pockets. The problem will be in how your pockets are cut and the fact that most pants do not have the same pocket design. Most are cut at an angle, so things can drop down in them. Not good for carrying a holster and gun. They do not care about us gun toting folks when they design the pockets. Another sore point is the fact that some pockets are very shallow. If you attempt to sit down or even bend over, all the small things like your change fall right out. Have you ever seen a guy sit down and have stuff falling out like that? Now how are we going to get a holster and gun to sit correctly in that shallow angled pocket.

The best pockets are ones that are cut square at the bottom and are deep. Another thing to remember before you buy pants, check the pockets. You can work with the deep angled ones but the shallow ones are unworkable. If you really want to pocket carry with your setup and your pockets are not working, just bring your pants to a tailor, he can fix the pockets, a very cheap fix for the problem.

We have found that it pays to look to well-tailored men's pants for ideas in good pocket design. They are used to pockets that carry all their necessities, to pockets that last, to pockets that don't distort their clothes so that you can see the outline of the wallet from down the block. Take a peek inside a high quality suit to see what you've been missing.

The holster does not make the gun print, it's the clothes you are wearing. It's just a matter of learning how to dress for concealment. If you are wearing tight jeans whatever you put in there will print, even your one and only friend below the waist will print. The holsters job is to be a stable platform to hold the gun when you need it. Holsters do not conceal guns , in fact they make the BIGGER.

First off here, nobody is looking at the bulge in your pocket, really. Has anyone ever come up to you on the street and said, gee, your pocket looks awfully full, while pointing at it, and say, what ya got in there? I don't think so, forget about it. For one you may be to paranoid about it, so you have a budge in your pocket, so what. No one is looking at it and who is to say what it is. Do you go around looking at other people's crouch area's trying to figure out what they have, of course not!!

With that said, being mindful of printing is normal even for experienced carriers, being a bit paranoid when you first start carrying is also normal. Eventually you will become used to it and honestly forget it's there. When you first start carrying, it feels like every hockey, soccer mom and store employee has spotted you, when in reality, probably none of them did.

It would be impossible for us to stock different colors. Black is most concealable and that's what we use. But you can change the color if you want, here are instructions on making that clip any color you desire. You wear a brown belt make it brown, you want it to match your blue jeans make it blue. You get some wear on our black ones, do a touch up and make it look new.

Now you will never be able to duplicate our finish, thats a professional finish, but you can get a real good one out of this process and you can keep it looking new whenever you want.

At this point the holster is protected and you are ready to lightly prime.
Then 3 or 4 coats of light spray paint or until you get the finish you desire.
A light coat of clear will make it more resistant to scratches.

Lets explain them first so everyone can get a better understanding of the product. These holsters surfaced somewhere around 2007. Sometimes called a compression type holster in the industry or on forums. Most times a rubberized material is used on the outside of the holster to help keep it in place. (Hey we wonder where that idea came from? We were the first in the industry to use a rubberized material on a pocket holster back in 1997.) They use no clip or straps for the attachment to the belt. The pressure from the belt holds this holster in place. With the gun in the holster turned upside down, the gun will fall out, it has zero retention. It will not support one handed re-holstering, pull the gun out and the holster will collapse under the pressure from the belt. (That's not really a problem, we sell inside the pants holsters that do that. Some people do not require that feature.)

They seem to get rave reviews on forums and it seems most people do not have a problem with this style of holster. But there are threads on forums documenting some negative experiences with this style. As time goes on you will see more.

Our opinion is, this is an accident waiting to happen. Having nothing but resistance from the belt, holding the holster in place, it's just a matter of time before it falls out and hits the floor or pops out at the wrong time. It should not be expected to serve the same purpose as a good inside the pants belt holster. If it goes in your pants, you may as well be responsible and secure it to a good gun belt. We see no need to try to turn what is a pocket holster into an inside the pants holster. Even situations as simple as answering the call of nature and leaving the gun at the scene of relief happen more often than we care to admit with a holster that has no attachment point to the belt.

To us, it's a gimmick holster, (In marketing language, a gimmick is a unique or quirky special feature that makes something "stand out" from its contemporaries. However, the special feature is typically thought to be of little relevance and use.) just like the pager holsters were in the 90's, now transformed into cell holsters in 2000. It's not for serious use. We just cannot see off duty law enforcement, FBI, CIA, special forces, homeland security or "anyone in the know" using and relying on this type of holster. We cannot see any credible school teaching what the criminal justice system calls "judicious use of deadly force" putting their stamp of approval on it for students taking a class.

If we thought it was a viable, safe way to carry a loaded gun we would put the design into our line. (Just to be clear, there is no patent on the design, its public domain) We think carrying a gun is a privilege and with that privilege comes great responsibility. We would like not only you to be safe but the innocent people around you that had no say in the equipment you picked to carry your gun.

We made it so you will never have a problem with that holster coming off, no how, no way. That clip is rock solid, extreme duty, over the top and we designed it that way, it's not coming off. End of story! That clip is on duty in some of the toughest places in the U.S. and the world. Rest easy knowing that you have the same equipment as law enforcement, border patrol, home land security, FBI, CIA and Special Forces.

Here a tip on working that clip. A common mistake some people make getting the holster on and off is putting your two fingers on each side of the clip and pulling upwards. Do not do that, it works like that, but an easier way is take your two fingers, keep them together and put them under the middle of the clip, this spreads the weight of the clip across your fingers. Now just pull up. This is a better and less painful way to work the heavy tension on that clip.

Most people wear a 1-1/2 belt and it would be impossible to stock another size clip like a 1-1/4. A 1-1/2 belt is industry standard and gives much more support than the 1-1/4. The only reason you wear a 1-1/4 belt is you may be in a suit or dress cloths and cannot wear the 1-1/2.

Most people will never been able to develop the dexterity necessary to draw right handed, fire empty or near empty, then reach across with their left hand and retrieve a magazine on the right side. (Lefties just reverse the scenario) The cross over from the weak side hand to the strong side of the body is awkward, slow and time consuming. It could it be done. But even with a lot of practice it still remains awkward and time consuming compared to retrieving a magazine with the weak hand from the weak side. That is just a long reach for anyone, add some girth to the situation and that scenario gets really ugly fast.

This is one of those Gimmick holsters. (In marketing language, a gimmick is a unique or quirky special feature that makes something "stand out" from its contemporaries. However, the special feature is typically thought to be of little relevance and use.) ( And in this case can get you killed if you need the reload.) It's not for serious use. These holsters are best saved for those times when you are not going to rely on your weapon for self-defense like plinking or even hiking where you may just want a gun for Bobcat, Bear and Snakes.

Weapon retention simply means maintaining possession and control of your concealed carry handgun at all times during confrontation, physical activity, or just living everyday life. Considerations should be given to the carry location, type of holster used, clothing and anticipated activity while carrying concealed, with both accessibility and retention in mind. No two people's needs are exactly the same. There is a fine line between having your gun accessible and ensuring retention, but with a little thought and application, a viable compromise can be found.

The soft line consists of Mister Softy, Hidden Ally, Bare Asset, Split Decision, Upper Cut and Center Fold. They are non-molded holsters and are friction fit. Our designs are tight in this line for very good reasons.

It is a common complaint to have a break in problem with the revolvers and the good news is its fixed easily. Its a simple break in problem and an understanding of the extreme shape of a revolver when compared to an auto is in order. Let us explain.

What many people do not understand a flat auto like a Glock is not at all shaped like a revolver. You will never get the same smooth in and out feeling with a revolver. Revolvers are bumpy, auto's are sleek, smooth and level.

Revolvers have such a unique shape that changes from thin, to FAT around the cylinder and then thin by the barrel. It causes a problem when you put the gun in these types of inside the pants holsters. As you insert the gun in the holster, you now are pushing the revolvers cylinder up highagainst the metal clip, which is on the outside of the holster. This is the reason it does not seat during the first few times. All you have to do is hold the holster in one hand and push and twist with the other hand on the gun. It's just a matter of you using some muscle and PUSH AND TWIST and PUSH AND TWIST to seat the gun in the holster, real hard.

The "ride" of a holster refers to the vertical height at which the gun is carried relative to the belt line. A normal-ride holster will have the trigger near the belt line. A high-ride holster will have the trigger above the belt. A deep-riding holster will have the trigger below the belt. The ride of the gun, combined with the holster's cant will largely determine how comfortably a holster carries a particular gun for you. High ride or Low ride, there is no correct answer, everyone is different.

They both work together and both are important. We do not think there is a person out there that's wants to show the world they are carrying a gun or worse have the gun taken away from them. One of the first steps to ensure weapon retention is exercising effective concealment. If you are the only one that knows that you have a gun on your person, then there is little likelihood of having the gun removed from its carry location by another person. The clothes that we wear need to afford adequate concealability without attracting attention to ourselves. That should start with wearing something that is contemporary in style while matching the prevailing weather conditions. Wearing clothes that don't match in either type or color, or wearing a rain jacket on a warm sunny day is sure to attract the attention of the most oblivious observer. Balance of the carried equipment is important as well, in the way our clothes fit on our bodies. Too much weight on one side or the other of a pocket carry will cause the garment to hang at an odd angle or swing asymmetrically during movement which may attract the attention of the astute observer.

Carrying in a location that requires constant touching or checking is a dead giveaway to the casual observer that you are in possession of some equipment that isn't a regular part of your everyday wear. No matter what or where you carry, your goal is to look and act as if you had nothing but your hands and good looks to fend off an attacker. Blending with the rest of the population is a good thing, especially when carrying a gun concealed.

Constant vigilance in the awareness of where our concealed carry weapon is located at all times is important, especially if the potential of inadvertent separation exists. There are no hard and fast answers as each individual has his or her own priorities and parameters. The more information we have, and the more consideration we give, the more effective we can be in accomplishing the mission. The mission of carrying concealed, undetected, with retention, in our everyday way of living life.

It all begins with the cow and there is no escaping the fact that top quality leather costs plenty. Leather cannot be woven , grown or "created by man". It is a natural product. Leather wears in, not out. Some key factors that affect the quality and price of leather are the standard of living for the breathing beast, the way in which the cowhide is processed, the parts of hide used in construction and most of all, the quality of the craftsmanship. Very few hides meet the requirements for making gun holsters.

With all that said not all cows are created equal. A beast "fed up" and raised for a trip to the abattoir as quickly as possible is unlikely to produce the best leather. The older an animal gets the denser its hide will become, and this density is important in producing great leather. But age isn't everything.

An overweight animal is similarly unlikely to make great leather. The animal will yield a thick hide, but it will be loaded with fat. This will come out during processing, to be replaced by additives, but the final product is likely to be too porous to make the top grade and will have a spongy feel. This will affect its ultimate strength and the leather may be more prone to stretching and tearing.

Many leather manufacturers around the world prefer older animals that have been grass fed. Those raised on feedlots, grain fed for maximum growth and early slaughter are unlikely to produce the same quality.

Also, manufacturing leather gun holsters is a time-consuming, labor-intensive business, and each hide must be examined and each holster must be cut individually. These factors also contribute to its higher cost, but keep in mind, a good leather gun holster can last up to seven times longer than most fabric holsters. For many applications, leather simply has to look good, not so with gun holsters. Appearances aside, it fulfills a vital function and failure could result in serious injury. You are paying a high price because its the best material in the world. Hopefully you have picked a reputable artist in leather to make your gear.

Yes, the tannery has many grades to choose from, Grade A,B,C or 1,2,3. Every tannery calls it something different but it all means the same.

Leather is a natural commodity and is graded much like a diamond. The fewer imperfections on the hide, the rarer it is to acquire. Therefore, if there is less supply, there will be a higher cost.

The main determining factor in the quality of leather is determined by the origin of the leather. The main determining factor in the cost of leather is by the quality of the beast, supply and demand, and not by where the hides are tanned.

The hotter climate, (southern hemisphere) with the greatest extremes, in conjunction with the animals being raised on an open range, produce hides that are more weathered. They tend to show more scars, blemishes, defects and insect bites that must be mechanically sanded or buffed and cosmetically altered or repaired off before the can be sold. They are less supple and soft but are much more abundant.

Hides from the northern hemisphere (cooler climate) are less abundant and typically are higher in quality due to the climate in which these animals live. The cooler climates of Northern places, in conjunction with the animals being raised in pens or pastures, produce hides with the least amount of imperfections. Also factor in the standard of living for the breathing beast, and the way in which the cowhide is processed.

This information is neither good nor bad, it just is. Both hides will do a great job, it just depends what you are making with the leather. With that said there is no U.S or international grading scale. No governing body that watches what goes on. Terms such as "Grade A" or "First Grade" don't mean anything in particular. The nastiest piece of leather on the planet can be stamped "A Grade" if a manufacturer so chooses. The bottom line is you have to trust who you are buying your gear from. There is a greater quantity of cattle produced on the open ranges of the world, creating a greater supply. Therefore, these hides are less costly.

In order:

  1. Northern hides are considered premium select with the least imperfection.
  2. United States domestic hides are selected in the mid-range, we have both climates here.
  3. Southern American, Southeast Asian, Australian and North African hides contain the greatest number of imperfections and are the least costly.

Leather is the strongest natural material known to man. It has properties no other material has.

Tensile strength

Tensile strength is a widely used measure of a material. Webster defines it as the greatest longitudinal stress a substance can bear without tearing apart. Leather is proven as one of the strongest flexible sheet materials known.

Tear strength

Tear strength, or the ability to withstand tearing forces, is one of the properties that make leather so very durable. The fibrous structure of leather is somewhat random and three dimension in design and therefore, allows no easy path for a tear to follow. Because of leather's tremendous strength, the need for extra hemming, stitching, and reinforcing is greatly minimized.


Elongation is the ability to lengthen or stretch when stress is applied without breaking apart. No natural material does this better then leather.


Flexibility is a natural property of leather due to its unique fibrous composition. With this property, leather flexes easily in all directions with no weak links to give way and cause failure. With each element in the fibrous matrix working independently and carrying its share of the load, leather can easily absorb a massive amount of stress.


While endurance is common in rigid materials, the ability to resist tearing is rarely found in materials flexible enough to be used in holster making. Fortunately, leather consists of an irregular fibre patterns, which resist penetration and thus contributes to the long enduring life of most leather goods.

Moisture Absorption

Our vegetable tanned leather possesses an affinity for moisture. Moisture from humidity, perspiration, etc. will be absorbed to a large extent as it fills the voids between the fiber bundles that comprise leather. Some moisture will be absorbed directly by the fibers themselves for lubrication. Later the moisture evaporates, thus avoiding the clammy feeling that so often occurs with other leathers that are not tanned in this manner.

Yes, direct exposure to ultra violet sun rays will cause fading and discoloration. Also it will discolor from just the exposure to the air. It's called oxidation. The surface of the leather will develop a patina after years of exposure to the air. A freshly-cut apple turns brown, a bicycle fender becomes rusty and a copper penny suddenly turns green. They are all examples of the process called oxidation. Oxidation is defined as the interaction between oxygen molecules and all the different substances they may contact, from metal to living tissue. Sometimes oxidation is not such a bad thing, as in the formation of super-durable anodized aluminum. Other times, oxidation can be destructive, such as the rusting of an automobile or the spoiling of fresh fruit. When it comes to leather, its pure art work by mother nature, a thing of beauty.

As far as the user goes it is personal preference and what they want from their gun leather.

Unlined rigs are traditional, simple and effective. They are less expensive as they require less time creating and will last for generations.

The Premium fully lined holsters are definitely the top-of-the-line. They are lined with a smooth synthetic (man-made) suede that is glued down, has a handsome stitch line that is lock stitched on every seam around the entire holster and offers a rich looking finish enhancing the natural characteristics of our premium cowhide. It's got more "bling" then unlined and the lining helps slow down holster wear. Fully lined holsters will last for generations. If you have some experience carrying concealed, you already know "looking good" is part of the game. Having a high quality holster to go with your training and your favorite guns is important. These holsters have the distinction you would expect from a finely made piece of art and if you are proud of the guns your holstering, why not show it off with high a quality High Noon Holster.

Shooters around the world wear High Noon Holsters gear. You can 't go wrong with any of our holsters. Either lined or unlined both will get the job done.

Yes, while we always strive for consistency, as with any handmade leather product there are slight and unique variations in each of our goods. From stitching to snap placements to embossing patterns, to range marks, each product is unique, and are "one of a kind" no two items will ever be exactly the alike. As a customer you may not notice, you may never have two exact holsters side by side. But for us it's easy to see the slight differences mother nature gives to this magical material.

No it will not, if that were true no one would use a leather gun holster. In fact the opposite is true, leather is the Rolls Royce of material for guns. Leather is a natural product, so it does absorb moisture, even if it is sealed, it still will absorb. Thats a fact, but it's a good fact for gun owners. The same porous structure that allows leather to absorb moisture also allows leather to dissipate moisture slowly for a cooling effect during warm weather. When there is less moisture available, the same fibrous structure that once held water now holds air for an insulating effect. Accordingly our leather was created to work year round for you.

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The cowhide we use at High Noon is the highest quality leather available. It is a mix of cows - meaning male or female. In the livestock industry, cows (female) are usually given over to milk production. Males (bulls) are used for breeding or sold for their meat, and then the hides go for tanning. So, most of the leather that is available for anyone to purchase is male.

The latest trend among some holster and gun belt makers is labeling the hide to be bullhide implying that it has a higher quality associated with it. All cowhide, male or female, is the same. It is impossible to know if a hide is male or female and it does not matter as long as it has the quality necessary to make a great holster.